There are types of clothes, and themes, that keep recurring in fashion, and garments that keep making a reappearance with only slight alterations. If you have at least a few of them in your wardrobe, they make great staples around which you can ring contemporary changes so that you always look current.

There are several things to watch out for with 'classic' clothes. One is the fabric - it definitely pays to buy a classic silhouette in a good fabric rather than a cheap fabric, as otherwise the fabric will show its age before the garment does.

Another is the colour. Any garment that you expect to live in your wardrobe for a long time should be in a neutral colour that goes with everything else. However, if you're comfortable with a particular style, ringing the changes with colour and fabric is a great way to add a twist to your wardrobe.

The third consideration is the fit and here, it's the shoulderline that is critical. Garments that fit to your shoulderline will age better than fashion extremes. It can be very irritating to have a beautiful item that still fits, is in a good and flattering cut, but where the shoulders have become too large for current fashion.

Today I'll look at coats, as these are often among the most expensive items in a wardrobe, with a good winter coat entailing serious outlay. Here, more than ever, a good fabric is worth paying for and will repay the investment with a reduced cost per wear. The cost per wear on my Burberry polocoat and Aquascutum camelhair car coat have been minimal - both have been in my wardrobe for over a decade, alongside a range of Barbours in dark blues and greens, and a Jaegar car coat in dark cream leather. Meanwhile, scarlet, pink, purple and green coats have rotated in and out of the wardrobe for a bit of fun, but often proving very expensive purchases, given the amount they were actually worn.

With coats, a raglan sleeve is very versatile, as in this leather coat from ShopNBC (sadly not available in Europe). A raglan sleeve has a seam running from the underarm to the neck, and gives you a lot of leeway in the sleeve head (sewist speak for shoulder padding), as does a 'kimono' sleeve, where there is a seam running down the outside of the arm. A competent tailor can reduce the shoulder width on these kinds of sleeve without too much trouble if fashion moves from big shoulders to small, whereas altering the sleeve head on a set-in sleeve is more difficult and costly. This type of sleeve also gives you a lot of room under the arm - useful when you're wearing an item over tailored clothing.

Altering a coat from a narrow to a full cut is much more difficult, so try to avoid very narrow cuts in coats, especially when fashion is on the cusp of a change, as it is right now. If you're not sure, go up a size, then if you switch to clothes with more volume in the next year or two, your coat will still fit over the top.

The classic coat designs are:

Trench - in beige, navy or black cotton or polycotton. Manufacturers like Burberry and Aquascutum (left) are among the best. A trench should fit comfortably over a jacket without creating enormous shoulders that look like you left a coathanger in there, and if you buy one with a zip-out winter lining, you'll more than double its usefulness. A classic trench is double-breasted, has visible buttons, a back gun flap, button-down epaulettes, a front storm flap, a belt with a buckle, sleeves that can be closed with buckled straps and a buttonable back vent to the skirt. Currently, the cut is also narrow, as you can see at left. Choose one long enough to cover your skirt for the most mileage, or ring the changes with thigh-length or mini-trenches. If you have a large bust, consider a single-breasted trench, and if the style suits you generally, look out for it in unusual fabrics.

Polocoat - in beige, navy or black cotton or polycotton. Again, manufacturers like Burberry and Aquascutum make the classic ones. A polocoat differs from a trench in several ways. It is single-breasted and slimmer overall and works better over sweaters than over jackets. It has a 'fly' front (ie, the buttons are hidden by a placket when the coat is closed), there are no epaulettes, there is no pleat to the back, and the belt is optional (there are no belt loops). Polocoats give a cleaner, more slimming line than a trench but can look very frumpy when done up if you have a large bust - they are best worn open, or by those with small breasts.

Overcoat (right) - in beige, navy or black camelhair, wool or cashmere. Here, a raglan sleeve is the best design as an overcoat is designed to go over other clothing, and a raglan gives you more room under the arm. A single-breasted button front or a wrapover with a belt are the most versatile - a wrapover gives you more options for what you wear underneath and is useful if your weight fluctuates. A shawl collar is classic and doesn't date, but if you can't find one, choose revers and a collar that are not exaggerated or rounded (Peter Pan-style), or a contrast velvet collar inspired by the man's Chesterfield. Overcoats are great if you need to wear a suit to work or have to travel on public transport, where the longer length is useful, but if you mainly drive, you'll get more mileage out of a car coat (see below).

Waxed jacket - in dark green, navy or brown waxed cotton. Barbour produces the most famous range of waxed jackets but there are many other, cheaper manufacturers producing similar garments. The most useful waxed jacket comes to about mid-thigh, has a heavy zip that can be zipped from top to bottom or vice versa, wind flap with heavy poppers, moleskin-lined handwarmer pockets, large bellows or 'poacher' pockets, a corduroy collar and either elasticated cuffs under an outer cuff, or cuffs that close with a strap and buckle. Traditionally the lining is tartan, and there are pop-out or zip-in liners. The main difficulty with waxed jackets is their upkeep as they really need rewaxing every year to maintain their looks and impermeability but there are now fabrics that mimic the impermeability of wax without the upkeep.

Parka. The parka appears every year in a different guise or fabric. The classic parka has a hood, often with a contrast lining and a fur edge which may be fake or real. It has a front closure and possibly a drawstring waist and/or hem. Bright colours and good wools give a twist to this classic, which has come a long way from the picket lines of the 1980s. To avoid that look, don't buy dark green ones with an orange lining but go instead for something like this nifty blue number from Grattan. Alternatively, try out a padded version in a short or longer length. In this type of parka, the fold-away hood is usually hidden in the collar and there is often an internal drawstring waist. I notice that here in France, the lightweight, padded fashion parka is one of the most popular options on the street, worn with a fur-trimmed hood. 

Duffel coat. Like the parka, the duffel is always available - each year in a different colourway or fabric. The classic duffel should be made from boiled wool or woolmix, have a hood, large patch pockets and toggles on leather frogging. One about knee length is very versatile and doubles as a car coat for casual use, and the patch pockets are very handy in winter if you're wearing gloves, as they're easier to use than inseam pockets. This yellow one is from this year's Grattan catalogue.

Car coat - this describes a length, rather than a style, but is any coat short enough to sit in comfortably when you're driving. In a good car coast you should be able to raise your arms easily and it shouldn't get in the way of the seatbelt or gear shift. All the above styles are available in car-coat length, but for a general purpose car-coat, a slightly loose, tent-like cut with a raglan sleeve is a good bet and leather is a useful material - my dark cream leather from Jaegar has been going strong for over 10 years now and has been worth its weight in gold.

What exactly constitutes a jacket is rather a moot point, with a short coat meeting a jacket somewhere around thigh level, but there are certain styles that recur again and again. Most are derived from menswear.

As with coats, whatever style of jacket you choose it will date less if you avoid extremes such as big floppy collars, unusual sleeves and wide shoulders. Jackets that come to exactly your shoulderline can be worn for years, while the sleeve should be one or two piece, with or without a separate cuff.

Jeans jacket (far left) - in denim or chino fabric. The classic jeans jacket has a collar, heavy studs or a zip, two high breast pockets with flaps, wrist-length sleeves with a one-button cuff and comes to about hip length. An extremely versatile jacket for casual wear, you can dress this up by a simple change of fabric, such as black leather, red vinyl etc. If you're busty, look for ones with vertical seaming and don't make the mistake of buying too large.

Bomber jacket (left) - in black, brown or tan leather. Modelled on the Second World War flying jacket, the classic bomber jacket fits to the shoulder and has epaulettes, and snug knit cuffs and knit bottom band, worn at hip level. It should have a collar and may close with either a zip or heavy studs. A good leather will last virtually a lifetime, while a cheeky satin number is handy for a bit of zip for evening. If you like the bomber jacket style, get it in a range of colours and fabrics - it's a great, youthful, windproof option.

Baseball jacket (right) - in any colour of main body, and often white or cream detailing. A baseball jacket has roomy raglan sleeves and usually a matching knit cuffs and waistband. It has a small, round collar and closes with a front zip and traditionally has large numbers and logos both front and back. The classic American baseball jacket is a heavy garment with leather sleeves, but fashion versions come in lightweight cottons and synthetics. A useful, fun style for casual wear.

Biker jacket - in black or dark brown leather. A motorcycle jacket is close-fitting (for wind resistance), with raglan or set-in sleeves and usually a very short stand collar. It closes with either a central front zip or an asymmetric zip running from hip to shoulder, and often has two inline vertical pockets (ie: set into the front seams). The real thing comes in a range of vinyls, leathers and rain-repellent finishes and the garment is often sectioned off into different colours along the seamlines, while the high-fashion version may have other bells and whistles such as epaulettes, a more conventional collar, or a more feminine cut to the side seams. The biker jacket is a very slimming garment and well worth a look if you've never considered one, especially in a quality leather.

Hacking jacket - in a plain wool or tweed. The hacking style of jacket - the most basic shape used for women's suits- looks good on virtually every woman, with its classic collar and open revers, single-breasted construction, slight nip at the waist, 1-3 buttons and wrist-length sleeves. It may also have a velvet collar, and the pockets may be horizontal, patch or inline. Modelled on Victorian riding clothes, this is the classic jacket for business wear but also, in a casual fabric, smartens up casual trousers such as jeans. The crucial thing to watch out for with this style of jacket is the height of the 'stance', which is where the two front edges meet. If you're petite, keep this quite high, preferably around bust level, and opt for three buttons - if you're taller it can be lower and you can get away with 1 or 2 buttons. Modern versions come in almost any fabric but are more wearable if there's a degree of stretch.

Paletot (far left). The paletot rotates in and out of fashion. Big in the late 50s and early 60s, it's been seen again comparatively recently with the trend towards volume. 'Paletot' basically denotes any jacket that is short and roomy. It usually has three-quarter sleeves, falls at the high hip and may be collarless or have a round collar band. Paletots are best worn by women with small breasts - on a larger woman they are very unflattering. They also look better on short women than tall women, who can look Olive Oyl-like in the three-quarter sleeves.

Bolero. A bolero is a very short jacket that may come as low as the waist or be as short as a pair of shoulderpads, when it's usually referred to as a shrug. Boleros are a great cover for small-breasted women but are very unflattering to everyone else as they hang to the bustline and then sail straight out from there. They also leave the waist fully exposed. If a dress style comes with a sleeveless top and matching bolero, pass on this if you have heavy arms or a large bust - opt for a wrap evening cardigan instead.

The above items are available from La Redoute (bolero, paletot, jeans jacket, hacking jacket), Debenhams online (biker jackets, bomber jacket) and Amazon.com (baseball jacket).

Skirts come in all shapes and styles, but there are certain skirt styles that don't date easily, so if you have three or four of these in your wardrobe in usable neutrals, you should get endless wear out of them.

When you come to try on a skirt, don't buy it too tight - you should be able to slide two fingers inside your waistband easily, and this is especially important if you're prone to bloating. If your figure fluctuates or you retain water before your period, look for skirts with an elasticated back waist. Avoid those with elastic at the front though, unless you plan to always hide the waistband.

Classic designs

Pencil. Best worn at knee length for endless versatility, the pencil skirt is a classic that works in virtually any colour or fabric. For daytime it's great in a dark wool with some stretch, while a black velvet one will take you from day to evening. It's the best shape for a mini, works well at ankle-length with a back slit, but is less flattering at mid-calf-length unless you're very tall and very thin. Opt for one without a waistband, if you can find it, and 4 to 6 gores, especially a front panel like this one (right) from La Redoute. If you have a tummy, consider a skirt with a built-in tummy support, or a slip in the same style to be worn underneath, or opt for a pencil with two tiny pleats at the front.

If you find a pencil skirt but it needs to be shortened to the right length for you, it will probably also need to be nipped a little at the side seams to avoid a bulky silhouette, so take it to a tailor unless you're an experienced seamstress.

Straight. A popular skirt, but actually quite difficult to wear unless you're slim. If you like straight skirts, keep them shortish - at a longer length they can look very frumpy, especially in a heavy fabric. Pencil skirts and A-lines are generally more flattering. 

A-line. The most forgiving skirt for daily wear, especially on British women, who tend to be 'hippy', an A-line skirt glides easily over your hips and thighs. It can be any length, and those with 4, 6, or 8 gores, or with a button-down front, give verticality to your silhouette, as seen in this version from Monsoon (right). An A-line skirt should fit neatly at the waist, with or without a waistband, but get one without pleats, which add needless bulk.

Bias-cut. Bias cutting simply means turning a woven fabric to 45 degrees so that it stretches, and it can be used for any style of garment. The bias cut when used in a skirt is very feminine and floaty, but it creates cling, especially around the backside. Bias cut skirts are very flattering if you have slim hips and a flat stomach, but are unforgiving to those with large hips, thighs or tummy.

If you like the flare created at the bottom of a bias skirt but have saddlebags, you can get a similar effect without the cling by wearing a gored 'tulip' skirt, where the fabric is cut in straight panels that then flare out from the knee to give a bit of a kick. This suedette one from Damart (right) also has a forgiving elasticated back.

Tiered. Skirts in multiple tiers are always available, though they move in and out of fashion. Always reflecting their bohemian origins, these skirts work best on those with an arty disposition, and it also helps if you're tall enough to carry off their width. The gypsy skirt is a fun option for casual or evening wear, but those in one colour are more elegant, or try one with some vertical broomsticking in the fabric to offset the horizontal trimmings. This purple version is from La Redoute.

Pleated skirt. Possibly the most unflattering skirt shape for anyone who isn't tall, thin and has a defined waist, this is also the most popular style for middle-aged women. This would be inexplicable if this style was not so comfortable. Although always modelled on a tall, thin woman, in real life it's seen far and wide on portly women, including with a full elasticated waist, which only creates even more bulk. If you really MUST wear a pleated skirt, make sure it flares rather than dropping straight down (ie: a style such as a sunray pleat), and buy one with a flat front waistband.

Circle skirt. A very feminine style of skirt which flares on the bias from waist to hem. Popular in the 1950s at mid calf length, it moves in and out of fashion at varying lengths. At knee length, in a relatively heavy fabric so that it doesn't fly away, it can be a useful option for women who aren't keen on A-line skirts. In a light chiffon, it's a sexy choice for evening, while longer, as here, it's fun and retro. Always keep your top half simple and short with this style of skirt and only wear it if you have a well-defined waist.

Kilt. The traditional kilt can create a huge amount of bulk around a feminine silhouette, though the flat front panel can also be flattering and the weight of the garment makes it a useful winter option. Kilts work if you're tall, thin and have no waist, but should be avoided by other figure types, especially short women, heavy women and hourglass silhouettes. Sadly, plain kilts are in short supply: if you buy one in plaid (a Scottish, rather than an Irish kilt), watch out for the size of the 'sett' - a large tartan can create a strong horizontal that cancels out the verticality of the pleat, particularly if the kilt is pleated 'to the stripe'. This 'kilted skirt' is from Heritage of Scotland.