Fashion-proof your wardrobe - part three

Up at number four in my list of dateless indispensibles is a wool pencil skirt.

The most idiot-proof by far is one in a fine knit such as merino, as this has built-in stretch: failing that, a fine woven wool with a matte finish and a lining will do. But I urge you to find a knit pencil skirt if you possibly can, as they are hugely more comfortable than woven skirts and also allow you to stride easily.

Knee length is the most versatile length. I wouldn't personally go much above the knee anyway once you hit 40 anyway, no matter how good your legs are, and knee length is suitable for work, for play or even for something unexpected like a funeral, where most people would balk at a mini.

You can also get away with a longer skirt if you're tall. Shorter gals tend to look a bit potted in a long, narrow skirt unless it's actually floor length, but when at home, I prefer a long skirt as being warmer and more practical.

If the skirt is  knitted, look for a 'grown-on' waistband that is knitted in (rather than a waist that folds over with elastic slotted through): this will prevent any binding at the waist. If it's a woven skirt, look for one without a waistband, or if you always hide your rear, consider a waist that's elasticated at the back, to give you some leeway.

For maximum versatility, keep your skirt detail-free: no fancy hem, no pockets, no contrast stitching - it's meant to set off your other clothes, not draw attention to itself. Once you've got your bog-standard version, you can then riff on it with others in fabrics such as velvet or satin, or with hem details or pockets or in other colours, such as burgundy, navy or charcoal.You'll still get more wear out of the plain one.

When fitting, crouch down in the changing room - if you can't squat in it, don't buy it - it will irritate you all day. With a woven skirt with a lining, you might consider going up a size and having it tailored where necessary - the correct size is when you can comfortably slide two fingers under your waistband. 

Provided the fabric is fine and matte, a skirt like this will do for casual, at-home wear, office wear or evening. It will act as companion to your classic white shirt for absolute plainness, or be used to set off a statement piece. Dress it up with a twinset and pearls for the sexy secretary look, a big man's cardi for lounging, or a silk shirt or beaded cardi for evening.  

Personally, I think a knitted skirt is far more useful than a woven one - it smoothes better over your bumps, it accommodates fluctuations in weight, you don't need a split to walk in it and it's comfortable to sit in all day. I have four thick knitted merino pencil skirts from John Lewis, in black, charcoal and brown, and I've worn them October-May every year for 15 years. Expect to pay £90 for a really good quality wool.

* What dates a skirt? More than length, where you should just pick what suits you and what you're most comfortable in, what really dates a skirt is being outside of the classic styles of pencil, dirndle, a-line etc. Avoid parachute skirts or ones with assymetrical detailing or fancy pockets if you want it to last.