It's now spring and as I gingerly peel off the layers of winter woollies, my thoughts are turning to how I want to look this season.

This is not - as every year - very much to do with fashion. What may work on the catwalk doesn't work for my life of wellies and dog-walking, and by the time you're 40 you'd better know what suits you in any case. I know that I like practical, comfortable clothes that don't need much maintenance; lowish heels (2.5in) or flats; fitted, hourglass-shaped clothing with stretch etc. And I like to just pull on two or three things and go, without any dicking about.

This year, I've decided to think very carefully about colour, and since I bought only one new thing last year - a taupe print dress from Boden - I feel justified in having a few new things too. They will only be new to me, of course, as they are all second-hand from Ebay - most of them cost about 99p.

This season I'm going to seriously focus on blue to match my eye colour. This idea is an old image consultant's tip and it really works. If you wear tops, necklaces, earrings etc in your eye colour, it makes your eyes really pop and over time, I intend to have more and more blue in my wardrobe. My eyes are blue-grey but virtually any soft shade of blue works, from ice blue to sky blue to cornflower to darkest denim, and veering off into turquoise shades as long as they're on the blue rather than the green side.

Complementary colours I've decided on are blonde (my hair colour - another image consultant trick), white, cream, primrose yellow (a good complement to blue) and the nude shades of flesh through to pale pink. And tiny flashes of red, as this is a colour that blue is often teamed with. What won't be on the menu is khaki (normally one of my staples) or strong, bright colours such as lime green, mustard, chrome yellow, magenta or purple - my colouring is too subdued to look good in these. 

In a more radical step, I've also decided to eliminate black and dark brown entirely from my wardrobe this summer. Partly this is because I've been living in brown and black all winter and I'm longing for a change - and if these clothes are out on view, it's all too easy to end up wearing them. So at the weekend, into the flatpacks went all my dark clothes, not to be seen again until autumn (if this experiment works).

The next step, then, was to assess what I already had and work out what I needed to buy in order to fill the gaps.

I already have a cornflower blue tiered skirt and three dresses in sky blue and forget-me-not blue, but they are all linen and only suitable for really hot weather - I didn't wear them at all last year. I don't need any new tees, as I have half a dozen long-sleeved blue t-shirts and several strappy vest tops, as well as several blue-striped cotton and denim shirts. But I am parlous for medium-weight clothing such as denim, brushed cotton or chino fabric.  

I fixed on three new cardis (I no longer buy jumpers as they're not flexible enough), three new skirts, a dress and a couple of pairs of sandals. This will do me for at least a year and a lot longer if I buy right. 

I love denim as it's practical, the twill weave needs no ironing, and it will go with everything - cotton cardis, cashmere polos, aran sweaters, you name it. It was strange, then, to realise how little of it I had left, having dropped a couple of dress sizes over the years.

The two blue skirts shown are from Ebay - the paler one is Laura Ashley and the darker one is Per Una from Marks and Spencer. These are both brands I trust, which is important when you can't see the actual garment (the Per Una one arrived yesterday and it's a  gorgeous, clingy fishtail shape, so I'm very pleased). Then I treated myself to the coral linen skirt (below) from Boden simply because of its irresistible print (I am trying to be bolder with prints, as I tend to avoid them). It ties in with the blue colourway, and I already have cream, taupe and coral cardigans to go with it. 

The plain cornflower-blue cotton cardigan (top left) is from Cherokee, a surprisingly good label from Tesco supermarkets. The casual zip-up style (a flattering vertical line) will go perfectly with all three skirts as well as with jeans and my existing Laura Ashley chino skirt. 

Again deciding that some pattern was necessary, I then bought two more cardis - the blue and white one is ramie and very similar to a jade and cream one I once had, which I wore until it literally fell apart. The softer, more muted one in blue and brown is from Next. Again, both go with either of the new denim skirts, as well as chinos, taupe trousers, etc, that I already own.

Then I bought a denim dress that can be worn by itself on warm days or will go over a t-shirt or under a jacket. Last year I really missed my old denim button-down dress, which I gave to a pregnant friend, so it will be nice to have one again - living the life I do, I'll probably get almost more wear out of this than anything else. 

Once all that was sorted, I sat down over the weekend and made myself some casual necklaces from turquoise and blue beads - shell, agates, pearls, turquoise from China, ceramic, glass, wood and you name it: each necklace has a slightly different length, texture and mood so they can be worn together or separately.

In the sewing room are several lengths of fabric: sky blue chambray, sky-blue cotton with polka dots or white stripes; vintage blue cotton with a fine red check; heavy, embroidered grey-blue linen etc, even the most gorgeous Solbiati linen (just a remnant, but enough for a scarf). These, I'll turn into half a dozen bias-cut skirts and panelled button-down dresses. 

My last purchases are these sandals, to go with my navy Crocs (fine for round the house, but not hugely flattering if anyone's going to actually SEE me). A friend who, like me, wears orthotics recommended Fly-Flots last year, and these blue suede ones look a pretty good combination of orthopaedic design and fashion. The others are a just a plain rubber mule for days when I have chafed heels (I've learned my summer lessons the hard way) but should suit both my running around lifestyle and Normandy's cobbled streets. 

Sorted, I hope, for the summer...

A little article here from that filth rag The Daily Mail, on the Queen's reception to celebrate British Fashion at Buck House.

Like one or two commentators, I couldn't help noticing how badly dressed nearly everyone is (except Queenie, of course, who just looks like herself). The dress worn by Alice Temperley is really quite terrible, and I normally like her stuff. And Yasmin le Bon's bare legs are crying out for some decent leg makeup - a mistake often made by women in public life, as the minute that camera flash hits you, most people's legs look shiny and naked.

David Bailey looks like he's just slept in a dumpster, bless him, but then he always has - the sign of a true 'smudger'. 

At least Twigs did us girls over 40 proud, and shows the benefits to a wardrobe of a: sleeves and b: a decent pair of high-denier tights. And Erin O-Connor's outfit is something she could wear for the rest of her life too - plain black pants, comfy flats, a soft blouse, a soft, monochrome colourway.

Alright, alright, I know it's shallow, but here we go. The truth is, in an age where thinness is valued, many of us do want to look thinner in our clothes.

Anyone who's as skinny as she wants to be can stop reading here, but for everyone else (like me, after a winter of lard butties) here are some tips. 

* Aim for a long, lean, sleek line in everything you buy - don't buy clothes with volume. 

* Dress in one colour from top to toe, including tights and shoes. It's an age-old tip, but it really does work. If you tend to wear dark clothes and it seems too gloomy, make sure that your top half matches your bottom half (say, a jacket and skirt) but wear a contrasting blouse. Or wear dark brown, navy or charcoal instead of black. However, this trick also works in paler colours, including white.

* Matt dark fabrics with stretch are your best friend: think microfibre stretch tees, merino knit pencil skirts, suedette pull-on boots, poloneck sweaters. 

* Avoid texture, which adds bulk - mohair, boucle knits, guipure lace etc. If you like this sort of thing, save it for cushion covers and sofa throws, not your body.

* Stick to fluid, feminine fabrics such as wool or silk crepe, chiffon and knits. Avoid stiff, men's-type suiting fabrics or anything hard-edged such as patent leather or vinyl.

* 2-5 per cent stretch in any garment is usually a good idea.

* Don't wear your clothes too large. Jackets, coats and blouses should fit to the shoulder. Everything else should skim your figure, not envelope it.

* Don't wear shirts with a dropped shoulderline - these are men's garments, designed to make chests look broader (not something women generally want).

* Flip up your blouse collar at the back - it makes your neck look thinner. 

* Wear a long necklace or long thin scarf. If your necklaces have a tendency to drape themselves over one boob, try a heavy, flat pendant instead. 

* If your blouses gape, sew snappers inbetween the buttons for a better fit. 

* Wear your v-necks cut to the top of your bra or slightly higher. V-necks longer or higher than this, and crewnecks, tend to make your chest look vast. 

* Consider Henley necklines (round with a button-down front) or Moroccan necklines (round with a slit down the front), which bring emphasis back to your centre front. 

* Keep sleeves to elbow length or longer to hide bingo wings.

* Avoid short-sleeved garments - they're never the right length and it's usually more flattering to roll up the sleeves on a long-sleeved garment, which makes your forearm look daintier.

* Don't hide your ribcage area. This is the thinnest part of your torso, so it should always be visible. 

* Check that your bra is giving you enough uplift. Look for a 3-4 section cup, with or without an underwire, and thick straps that hoick your boobs up so your nipples are midway between your shoulder and elbow (or preferably higher). Lower than this, and your boobs will be hiding your ribcage, which will give a matronly look.

* If you have rolls of fat between bra band and waistband, wear high-rise knickers or an all-in-one control girdle. They're a lot more comfy than they used to be. 

* Make sure your clothes have vertical, not horizontal detailing. Vertical seams of the princess type are very slimming in jackets and blouses, giving a visual effect similar to boning.

* Diagonal shaping is also slimming - look for wrap tops, surplice tees, diagonal stripes etc. 

* Avoid bustline pockets and patch pockets on hips - these add bulk. Look instead for vertical pockets, or those that are inline with the side seam so they are invisible.

* Wear your jackets cut to the hip or high hip - NOT longer. A longer cut may comfort you with the idea that it covers your bum, but it also makes your legs look shorter. If you want to cover your backside, choose something with a more fluid structure than a jacket, such as a long tunic top. 

* Avoid dirndle skirts and pleated skirts that flare from the waist - they add bulk. If you like fullness in skirts, choose circle skirts, eight-gore flares or stitched-down pleats, which are flat at the waistline but flare out from about knee level. 

* Alter skirts so that they hit at the slimmest part of your knee - usually it's just above where it widens out into your calf. If you like narrow pencil skirts, have this done by a tailor because the side seams will also need taking in a bit. If you prefer longer skirts, have them about 4 inches above the ankle, in fluid fabrics, never at mid-calf length, which makes your legs look fatter.

* Do your utmost to find a good pair of jeans - then buy three of them. Look for dark indigo, bootcut, slight stretch, a proper v-shaped back yoke and the stitching on the side seams visible from the front to give a long line down your outside leg.

* For evening, think of fluid matt black trousers with black ribbon, braid or lace down the outer seam - this works on the same principle. 

* Look for shoes with a low vamp and no straps, to visually slim the foot. 

* Avoid ankle-strap shoes, and don't wear ankle boots with skirts. 

* Wear heels - if you look taller, you look thinner. If you're not comfy in heels, keep your flat shoes feminine and interesting but beware of ballerina pumps which can foreshorten the foot if the toes are very rounded.

* Consider knee-length boots instead of shoes, in the same colour as your skirt, for a long, unbroken line.

I've been looking at the Fall collections from London Fashion Week to pick out what might be suitable for the over-40s babe.

Well, quite a lot, is the answer. Leaving aside the micro minis, etc, there were quite a few usable looks strutting down the catwalk and the whole ethos so far has seemed very grown up, classic and - quite often - countrified. I wonder if this is a sign of the infant terrible, London, finally becoming an adult?

First up, from Christopher Kane (probably set to be the lead influence this season), came some interesting florals, usually on a black ground. If you like this look, you could track down a black tote bag with a big, bold floral design and that would update your whole wardrobe for the season. Alternatively, a scarf would do the trick. One other option that might be fun is to take a black coat or jacket to a professional embroiderer and have them treat the collar, revers or cuffs with some big, bold floral designs. 

From Erdem came some interesting dark florals and other prints such as these swallows, again often on a dark background. I love prints with a dark background, which were de rigeur for women in the 1930s and 1940s, because they are both practical and slimming. I'd snap these up while they're available, along with the heavy laces in black, taupe and grey that also featured in this collection. Heavy lace of this kind - guipure and its ilk - are one of those revolving wheels in fashion: buy correctly now and you could wear your pieces for the next 30 years. I'd go for a sleeveless vest and a long, v-neck top with sleeves. 

From Nicole Fahri, who produced a nice grown-up collection, came lots of classic looks in beige and black. I like this kind of thing because it's pretty much how I dress (right now I'm in a long black pencil skirt and long beige v-neck cardi with pockets, which could have been lifted straight off her catwalk) but she also showed another trend - plenty of black patent.

Patent was something that also turned up at Kane's show, so I predict the shops will be full of it, and pretty good knockoffs too, by autumn. I'd go for boots, shoes, belts or bags rather than whole coats, and certainly not leggings. 

Fahri also showed quite a lot of asymmetric garments - like Comme des Garcons but not as hostile, so if asymmetry is your thing (and it is mine), that's another trend worth exploring.  Asymmetric garments suit intellectual women who want to be noticed for their difference, not their sameness and are a great design thread for women over 40. 

If you like to spend winter in big fluffy cableknit sweaters and grey tweed, there were plenty to be found at Julien Macdonald's show, along with some very nice tailoring in dense black wools and camelhair.  Since camelhair also turned up at Fahri, that could be a go-to colour for the winter (time to get out my camelhair car coat with black chenille embroidery). Macdonald also showed lots of black chiffon, and black lace over nude chiffon - a great colourway for lingerie or sexy eveningwear. My major complaint about his show, though, was the use of some of the most anorexically thin models I've ever seen - one of the girls looked frankly like a corpse. 

There were more cream cableknits and grey tweed over at Pringle, along with gorgeous cobweb knits in black and camel colour. Apparently this uses a new technique involving soluble fibres, which washes away to reveal the cobweb pattern. Very pretty anyway. 

So, overall, classic but not in any way sombre, with lots of food for thought for next winter. But how about we get this one over with first?

Damart can be horribly frumpy (they were once best known for thermal underwear, after all), especially in summer, when the majority of clothing available anywhere seems to turn to a dreadful hideousness, but as usual there are one or two gems there. 

Bypassing the vile leggings and cropped trousers, these jeans struck me as useful. You can choose from this pull-on type at top left (flat-fronted, but with handy belt loops, should you wish to hide your dreadful elastic secret), or a tummy-support design - IMHO, something every woman over 40 should have in her wardrobe. The former are only £16, while the latter are £35 and the nice thing about ordering from a catalogue is that no-one's watching when you try them on. 

This blouse (right) also has some very nice details - note all the vertical seams, the flattering neckline, the three-quarter sleeves that allow you to show off a bit of arm candy. It comes in ivory and a sort of grape colour on the UK site, but this taupe shade is only available on the .fr site.

This camisole (left) is also a good design - again with vertical detailing, wide straps you can get a bra under and enough length to be useful - while the piped navy cardi below is the sort of thing that would smarten up jeans or team with a white skirt or navy trousers for summer. It is a little formal for me, so even better is a navy and white striped one they have on the site.

Dressing smartly in summer is always a problem for mid-life women - especially for work. The office might be either air-conditioned or a sweatbox, while travelling can be a nightmare on public transport - at least in a car you can set your own temperature, but on a bus or a train, you never know what you're going to get. Meanwhile, if your look or your lifestyle doesn't suit strappy, clingy little bits of nothing and you do at least need to look respectable, the manufacturers aren't interested in you. 

Summer colours are often rubbish too. Pastels are often horrible shades of turquoise, peach and pink in cotton jersey or poly mixes that look cheap and nasty, and there are lots of overblown florals. Personally, when it comes to pattern, I favour stripes and polka dots for summer as they always look fresh.

With regard to colour, you can't go wrong with combis of a good neutral such as black, navy, khaki or taupe, mixed with white or cream, or self-patterned and tonal mixtures. The latter often work best in in medium-toned colours such as denim blue or taupe, as these go with virtually all other colours.

This classic shift dress shown right (what the Americans would call a 'jumper') is again available on the French site but I didn't see it on the UK one. Made of chambray, it could be worn almost anywhere from the city to the waterfront. I can see my friend C wearing this.

From the French site (not available in the UK) comes this crinkle cotton outfit (left), in khaki or blue. This is the kind of outfit beloved of French women in mid life: a bit of pattern, vertical detailing, no ironing required, a bit of flirt in the ruffles, and quite a lot of flexibility. You can team the dress with a cardi, shrug or the matching blouse, or go sleeveless, and the fabric can take an absolute hammering without showing a mark. I see a lot of women wandering round my supermarket in various dress-and-blouse or skirt-and-jacket combos like these. 

Sad that the UK site isn't offering these excellent clothes, given that it’s the same company, but there are some other nice dresses to choose from, including an A-line, button-down, princess-seamed dress in chambray. This is one of the most flattering dress shapes on most women, is cool for summer with that lack of a waist seam and can take a lot of dressing up or down with cardis, belts and bags. For my casual lifestyle, it would be a winner.

More on Damart later.