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The definite dozen

If you have these items in your wardrobe, you'll always have something to wear.

When it comes to getting dressed, I like to be quick, as a rule. I can't be bothered with faffing about trying on this and that, so over the years, I've narrowed down my choices to things that all work together and can be put together as a no-brainer, leaving me more time for a G&T.

Some years ago, I wrote a list of 12 essentials an over-40s babe needs to keep in her wardrobe. If you keep all of these in, you'll always have something to wear. I've discovered other brands since then, so today, that updated list looks like this: 

1 Microfibre shorties. Go for a slightly low waist, and nude for the colour so that it goes under everything. Shorties give you a better line under clothing than a thong or brief and if your tummy or bottom are starting to sag, look out for those with butt-lift and tummy panels built in. The best are made by Jockey and Hanro but I because I live in France, I mostly buy Dim.

2 Nude-colour microfibre bodies or long camisoles, or a thermal camisole in silk jersey. If you choose the camisole rather than the body, make sure it's long enough to come down to at least your low hip, then it won't budge under clothing when you bend or stretch. If you choose the body, consider one with a built-in bra to minimise bulk and strap-show. Wearing underwear of this kind allows you to don low-waist or sheer clothing secure in the knowledge that you're properly covered up. It also has the secondary effect of smoothing over a bra that has lace or other additions, which many of the best support bras do. Check out Figleaves for ideas, or Winter Silks for thermal camisoles.

3 A decent bra. This becomes increasingly important as you age and the breast tissue softens, so keep your ideas updated - what suited you last year may not be right now. Wearing the right bra can take 10 pounds off your silhouette, so get properly fitted and when you find what you like, buy three of them (one to wash, one to wear and one to rest). Nude-colour is more flexible than white, then white, then black, then coloured items. If you're a C-cup or above, choose strong, wide straps that hoick your breasts forward and whatever your size, make sure the support comes from the band, not the straps (take your arms out of the straps and jump up and down to check). After 25 years of underwires, lately I'm a convert to the Doreen bra by Triumph, which is the best-selling bra in the UK. Sadly not the most attractive item to look at - though the Luxury option is an improvement - it gives a great shape under clothing, complete security as you move around and is so comfortable you don't know you're wearing it. I am also partial to the Grace bra by Royce and a very comfortable bra with padded straps by German firm Spiedel, which I found on Ebay. My latest purchase is a pack of three Ahh Bras to wear at home, when I don't need to hoick the girls up. 

4 T-shirts.  Only choose short sleeves if your arms are toned: long-sleeved tees are infinitely more wearable for most women and they cover a multitude of sins. When they appear in the shops with a neckline that suits you, snap them up, or order from a catalogue. I now rely on firms such as Lands' End and Gap for my cotton tees. Winter weight tees are usually better quality than summer tees - don't waste your cash on anything see-through unless you're aiming to wear it under a dress, in which case you want as thin as possible - American Apparel is a good place to look. A crisp white tee is as useful as a white blouse and can be dressed up or down accordingly, but almost any colour is wearable. Avoid logos and designs though - keep them plain if you're above an A cup, or you'll never make eye contact again. By and large a scoop-neck or v-neck is the most flattering neckline unless you're very thin, and cotton with some stretch - say 5 per cent - wears better than pure cotton.

5 Fitted white cotton shirts. Have a bunch of these in various styles - here's a good place to echo current trends, if that's your thing, or indulge a personal fetish for lace or embroidery. A shirt ending at around hip length means you can tuck it in or leave it out - keep it fitted, not tight nor too loose and baggy, so that you can layer both under and over. Vertical detailing such as pintucks, seams or pleats will lengthen your torso, making it looks slimmer - only choose items with horizontal details if you're small-busted. Whether you prefer collarless or collared is up to you, but generally, an ageing face benefits from a bit of tailoring and a shaped open rever or a standard shirt neck flipped up at the back are very flattering. Wear the neck open to give you a long, slimming, vertical line. Just above your bra is a good level, but if you feel this is too revealing, fill in the gap with a camisole or light t-shirt. White shirts are available everywhere, but Gap do good cotton ones and George at Asda do fab poly-cotton ones if you're short of cash. For investment pieces, consider Shirin Guild or men's shirtmakers such as Hilditch and Key.

6 Sweaters. By this I mean thin 2-ply cashmere or merino if you can stretch to it, something like Courtelle or a soft viscose if you can't. Choose crewneck for the most mileage, v-neck to be flattering, or poloneck if you're the chilly sort, and always buy them long-sleeved and at least hip length. These thin jumpers should be close-fitting - loose enough to get a blouse or tee underneath but still tight enough to go under a jacket. You need at least three - one in black, one in a paler neutral such as cream, beige or grey, and one in a colour that really makes your complexion sing - but having more won't hurt.

7 Well-cut black pants. Follow the style of the day, but not slavishly - avoid fashion extremes such as parachute legs and fiddly details like cargo pockets. Most women are well-served by a slightly low waist (ie: just under your belly button, not a low-rider), no pockets and a side zip to minimise bulk. This style of waist is very clean and allows you to wear your tops either tucked in or layered on top. Keep the leg bootcut, straight, full or flared. For fibres, anything matt and with some stretch is useful - wool/poly blends, microfibre and stretch velvet are all good options. I buy mine at La Redoute, from the supermarket, or from Lands' End.

8 Jeans. Choose a slightly low waist for minimum bulk, some stretch in the denim (2-10 per cent), dark indigo dye and a boot cut hemmed to the right length for either flats or heels. This type of jean will take you almost everywhere except formal offices and functions and it practically never dates - for this reason, avoid acid-washes, stonewashes, cropped legs, zips at the ankles, paper-bag waists or anything 'trendy'. A bootcut is not only flattering on every woman with hips or a backside, it also gives you the option of wearing long boots underneath in cool weather. You can wear these jeans with a t-shirt every day, with a jacket to smarten them up, with a white shirt, a sweater or a frilly blouse. When the denim starts to look tired, chuck it in the wash with a pack of Dylon dye and follow the instructions. Don't allow your denim to get stained, messy or faded unless it's strictly for casual wear - only young, thin people can get away with looking scruffy. After indigo blue, neutral colours such as black, grey and beige will give you the most mileage. Personally I favour Boden, which has a choice of bootcut width, and Lands' End.

9 Knee-length skirt. Somewhere around your knee, from slightly above to slightly below there is a length that is perfect for you. Take the trouble to find it and your legs will magically slim down and lengthen. Once you do find it, have all your skirts altered to fit (this might entail a visit to the tailor, as if you shorten skirts you often have to narrow them too). The knee-length skirt is always appropriate wear for business but you can wear it to work all day and still go out in it in the evening. Black woolmix with some stretch is probably best, followed by a neutral with some texture, and pair it with dark tights and shoes or boots. I have skirts this length in wool flannel with a lace hem, microfibre with a beaded hem, wool crepe with a wrapover front, velvet and cord. 

10 A classic coat. You can't go wrong with a trenchcoat or fly-front polo-coat of the Burberry type in a dateless colour such as beige or navy. Bought with a zip-out lining it will take you through at least three seasons each year. The real thing is always worth the investment but cheap knock-offs can be found in microfibre with poly linings and they will go in the washing machine. If you're looking for a winter coat, the most flattering shape on women remains the classic wrapover camelhair with a standard or shawl collar, worn to the knee or calf, belted or unbelted. In a good colour like beige, navy or black, it will take you from office to night out to a weekend in the country with nothing more than a change of accessories. Wool-poly blends will last you 2-5 seasons, while a good cashmere will last a lifetime. Incidentally, this is the coat that has consistently tested as the most appealing to men, if that might sway you.

11 Black leather footwear. Shoes are a very personal thing. One of my friends has over 65 pairs and favours leopard-print stilettos; I have about 10 pairs and favour stack-heeled boots. One thing we're both agreed on, though, is that the black leather ones are the ones we really wear. However full your wardrobe is of spiky-heeled satin numbers, pink suede peep-toes and diamante-studded boots, the fact is that streets are dirty, driving takes its toll and your feet can get cold nine months of the year. Good-quality footwear is a must, whether it's Footglove sandals, Chanel slingbacks or Shelley's boots, and black leather requires the least upkeep. Decide on your style - flats, court shoes, spike-heel boots - and maintain them well.

12 Accessories. Here's where any woman can dress up her basics and really make the most of colour and trends without breaking the bank. So if there's a season's colour that you like and it suits you, buy it in a scarf or belt rather than something expensive like a jacket. If there's a fussy trend in bags or belts, such as studs, fringeing or crochet, consider carefully whether it works on you - nothing updates an outfit quicker than a change of bag, but nothing dates it quicker either. Also, few things date a woman of a certain age more than an unwise belt (my once-favourite 4-inch deep black elastic belt with gigantic double peacock bronze clasp doesn't look quite so good now that it's not teamed with football-player shoulders and a big swirly skirt...) Trends apart, you'll still find that the accessories you wear the most are in good quality materials such as silk, wool and leather, and in neutrals such as brown or black, or cosmetic colours that flatter your skin. This means items such as leather belts half an inch to one inch wide, silk foulard squares, long velvet scarves, dark leather gloves and classic hats such as berets and fedoras.

A week off fashion

One great thing about a rambling holiday is being able to dress entirely for comfort.

We're on holiday in Brittany at the moment.

One of the things I most enjoy about being on holiday is the complete lack of any need to dress up. Time was, I'd bring a 'nice' outfit with me to go out to dinner (we usually go away in winter), but the past couple of years, I haven't even bothered with that - it's not as if the French dress up for anything.

Our days here consist of rambling on cliff tops, walking on the beach, visiting old chapels, forts and whatnot along the coast, and chilling out at the gite. There is no requirement for our clothes to be anything other than comfortable and practical, and that entails a whole new set of rules from the usual nonsense.

As a woman, it is very pleasant to feel free of the responsibility to be 'on' all the time. John Berger said that women were the observed sex, that right from our infancy we are the subject of the male gaze and we learn, even as little girls, to be aware of it. That means we dress accordingly - to be a pleasure for others to look at, not for ourselves to feel.

Dressed as I am at the moment, however, I become, every year, aware of the ease and comfort that attends male dress - the thick-soled, comfortable shoes that are easy to walk and run in; the windproof coats with numerous pockets; practical finishes that enable me to sit cross-legged, slide on my backside down rocks or get covered in sand.

I know, I know - men, in their work suits at least - have to dress in a uniform that is neither comfortable, nor practical. But no man suffers the degree of discomfort that the average woman does, especially with regard to footwear. I speak as someone for whom heels are fast becoming a thing of the past, and even flat shoes if they don't offer sufficient support for my orthotic insoles.

Today, I'm in Five Seasons Climate Control thermals; waterproof walking trousers with zip pockets and knee vents (from Lidl); Ecco shock absorber trainers that are a joy to walk in with my poor scarred feet; a zip-neck Craghoppers microfleece (my favourite new garment, courtesy of the DH); a lovely hooded aran sweater with handwarmer pockets from two local ladies who make to order; my trusty old microfibre balaclava, microfibre gloves, and a padded bodywarmer (Lidl again) with a 'fur'-trimmed hood.  

These clothes could not be more perfect for the day we have had: driving through the country lanes, playing on the rock pools at the beach, rambling along the vertiginous pathways of the Pointe du Raz - windproof, waterproof, wicking, comfortable.

As every year, I think to myself, this is the way to dress - I feel more human in these clothes and I am now determined to devote more of my budget to serious microfleeces, waterproof parkas and proper walking shoes. It probably means being in trousers for the rest of my days - shoes like this aren't really pencil skirt material - but so be it.

Yellow parkaSo, I have started with this parka from a new favourite company, Land's End, which will replace my old waxed jacket and Guy Cotten yachtsman's jacket, which is showing its age now. Land's End is a great company, with pretty good eco-credentials, and these parkas, importantly, have underarm vents, which the Guy Cotten doesn't (it makes me sweat like a pig in a sandwich bag). This bright yellow makes me feel cheerful in winter, looks great on the beach, and is practical for walking the dog in our Normandy drizzle.

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Fashion-proof your wardrobe - part one

Love clothes but hate fashion? Then buy wisely with these tips.

I love clothes, but I must admit that I hate fashion.  I hate buying an expensive jacket and then finding it no longer looks current. I hate not being able to find the same flattering shade of red every year. I hate magazines being full of trends that are impossible for a woman of over 40 to wear. I hate passing on perfectly good, and expensive garments, simply because they are dated. 

Over the years, however, I've worked out what actually dates your clothes, and it's really quite simple: avoid extreme cuts and shoulder lines, and don't wear patterns. 

Your key pieces should LACK fashion detail as much as possible - then they will go on until they wear out. If you can build this kind of longevity into your basics, that also means you can afford to spend more money on them because you'll get more wear out of them.

So here are some key items that are wardrobe investments - dig deep into your wallet. Here's what to look for.

classic shirt1    White shirt. Buy this in pure cotton poplin, oxford cloth or lawn, or in a good cotton with a little stretch. If it's cotton, buy the best quality you can afford, such as Sea Island, Egyptian, Supima or Pima (in that order of preference). A fly front gives a neater finish than buttons, though buttons give you more variety if you're willing to change them every year, and it should have a classic collar (see pic) rather than a penny collar, cutaway collar, wing collar or any esoteric style. Make sure it also has a yoke (a yoke reduces strain on the garment, and also makes it fit better), which should be quite narrow (1.5-2in is plenty) and that the sleeve head (top of the sleeve) meets your shoulder line as exactly as possible.

If your bust is a B cup or below, you don't need darts in a shirt, but if it's a C cup or above, look for princess seams (they run from the waist up to the armpit or shoulder) or vertical darts, rather than bust darts (which go sideways) in order to shape the garment - most of the shaping, on a quality shirt, is done via the side seams. If you have a very large bust, buy from a specialist such as Bravissimo, which allows you to choose via bra size, not dress size. 

The ways you can dress up a white shirt are almost endless. It will go over a camisole, vest, t-shirt, poloneck or thin crewneck sweater, it will stand alone, and it will go under a jacket, a crewneck sweater, a v-neck sweater or a cardigan. You can also wear it as a summer top layer instead of a jacket.

The bottom of the shirt should be shaped (a straight cut can be binding on your hips) and the sleeves should be long. Cuffs can be either French (foldback) or button. If you choose French, you can vary your look with cufflinks.

Make an investment with this item: you should expect to pay at least £70 for a really good shirt (the one shown is £69 from Thomas Pink), and £150 wouldn't be out of order, but its cost per wear will be minimal - I've had my Thomas Pink shirts for over 20 years and they're still going strong. The best brands are the traditional Jermyn Street makers Thomas Pink, Hilditch and Key, and Turnbull and Asser, or brands such as Jaeger, Aquascutum, Burberry or Austin Reed. If you live in the US, Brooks Brothers is the standard.

Once you're got your basic white shirt, buy the same kind of thing in different weights of white, or white on white patterns such as herringbone and in colours - black, beige, pink and navy are all useful.

* What dates shirts? Exaggerated collars, a dropped shoulder line, fancy yokes, breast pockets, logos, monograms, messages, fancy details, patterns.


Part 2: little black dress.







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To see ourselves as others see us

Vicky Ward is a woman with absolutely no sense of perspective.

I found SUCH a strange article on the Daily Mail site the other day.

First of all, I have no idea who Vicky Ward is, nor why I should care what she thinks, but she struck me as a woman who has absolutely no sense of perspective. How self-obsessed can one person BE, exactly?

She shows a perfectly nice picture of a happy young woman in a pretty wedding dress on her wedding day and decries her (former) self as fat, frumpy, ugly. No she wasn't - she looked perfectly nice. Really. The dress is lovely - low neck, tight on her neat bust, crisp silk fabric. I think what she really has a problem with is the man on her arm. 

Vicky Ward is a woman who clearly has a problem with herself. Herself as she is now - in 6in stilettos, bleach blonde and a skimpy little frock that's far too young for her - is a creation she's spent many years creating. 

But one wonders why. And what kind of person she might have become if she had worked on her personality instead of turning herself into a teenage boy's idea of what a woman should look like. 

The Daily Mail is full of this sort of crap lately - not that it's ever been anything other than a filth rag of an excuse for a newspaper anyway. But it used to be faintly readable on the Femail pages. Lately, though, I pick up a lot of pro-surgery, pro-Botox, pro-putting-women-back-in-a-Barbie-box articles that I feel must come from the (male) suits up on high. Gone is the lovely size 14 Alexandra Shulman, for instance, but the skinny size-8 body-dysmorphic Liz Jones remains. 

Still, at least Vicky Ward's readers retain a sense of perspective. I particularly loved this comment:

"Please no more articles about this vacuous waste of energy, I am so bored of it already and by the looks of the comments here, other people are too! Someone needs to sit her down and make it clear that, having overhauled her NORMAL body and replaced it what something she clearly considers as better, her husband RAN OFF with someone else! He married her in 1997 for her, and oops she turned into a high-maintenance NYC lady who lunches - nice to look at but perhaps not someone you'd want to share your life with. What a result... at least she'll never be lonely with her fake body and fake friends and fake lifestyles. If she had no money to maintain this facade, would her "friends" and admirers love her for herself? Umm, wouldn't think so from the article content."

Couldn't have put it better myself.  

 

 

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An Englishwoman in Paris

If you're planning a visit to the capital, wear comfortable shoes...

Trish in ParisWhen I was headed for Paris recently, for a business meeting, the one thing all of my friends kept asking me was: "What are you going to WEAR?"



It is interesting, and kind of amusing, that armouring oneself with the perfect outfit is something all women understand (I'm hoping they just all assumed I'd do my research, prep the vocab and come up with a decent question list...). And the truth is, I did arm myself with some options for outfits, including a shocking pink couture silk coat, a magenta satin 1960s dress suit, a 1960s silk and wool suit in blue and a magenta cotton vintage dress, none of which I wore.

Lemon linen suitEven my eventual choice of a 1960s lemon linen dress suit with hemstitching and a bow on the waist, I jettisoned at the last minute in favour of trousers, which for some reason make me feel more confident. I also didn't want to wear high heels, because of the heat (it was about 27 degrees in Paris) and I feel you can get away with low heels more easily with trousers. 



Grey Boden chinosIn the end, I wore grey flared chinos from Boden (my interview was conducted on a purgatorially uncomfortable Moroccan chair, only inches from the ground, so I was glad of the trousers which saved me waving my big fat knees at my interviewee), a plain white t-shirt and the jacket from the lemon linen suit, which has three-quarter sleeves and three big, covered buttons. It also has lovely hemstitching, which you can't see in these photos.  



pink pashminaI always wear a hat and took this raffia one (see top pic). Earrings were made by my jeweller friend Suzy, in silver fused with gold, and went with a pink pearl necklace; a cheap Hong Kong Cartier-tank-style watch from Ebay and some lemon leather vintage gloves with hemstitching, plus a screaming magenta pashmina tied to my bag handles.

I hate my hands, so I only ever wear a wedding ring (also made by Suzy), and I went for nail varnish for once, in iridescent pearl (as soon as I got home again, I clipped all my nails off, as I loathe long nails, which strike me as nasty and unhygienic).  



Mint bagtan laptop bagMy handbag was a big mint-green mock-croc leather tote with neon stitching from Di Cristina (I love this thing - it's like a giant sweet and it holds all my junk), and I had a beige mock-ostrich laptop bag for my computer and papers. Lucca notebookMy notebook was magenta hand-made Italian buffalo leather with hand-marbled cream paper (a present from the DH from The Online Pen Company) and my pen was a cream and black marbled Parker Duofold fountain pen he bought me nearly 20 years and which I was shocked to find recently is now worth a small fortune (something to do with the rareness of the acrylic). I did also, of course, record the interview, with a small and discreet recorder that I set going well in advance, but it's always useful to be able to make notes as well.

Shoes, as I've mentioned before on this blog, are something that drive me a bit crazy generally, and I ended up wearing a pair of 12-year-old almond-toed courts in pale blue and gold brocade, with silver leather 2in Louis heels. I've worn these to several events such as weddings and parties, and I know I can stand all day in them if need be. 



Interview over, elsewhere in Paris and for travelling, I felt very comfy in my pale blue linen Jasper Conran sundress (v-neck, v-back, fully lined and an asymmetric skirt), and a pale grey cotton cardi from H&M, teamed with navy Fly-Flots, or Boden chinos in navy, worn with Nike low-tops on which I've coloured in all the pale bits with a black marker pen.

With temperatures up in the high 20s, I didn't need my Burberry polocoat, other than to lie on it in the Tuileries. It is ancient now, and there are holes appearing everywhere, so when I got back, I splashed the cash on a vintage trench from Aquascutum. 

The French are marvelously stylish and I envied their nonchalance, but, I looked every inch the Englishwoman in Paris. Which is fine by me - because, believe me, the French find the English every bit as chic as we find them. 

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Fat versus flirty

A flirty little number can make you feel so much better...

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Oprah's guide to building a signature style

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Dresses of desire

Wall's new summer collection is gorgeous.

The return of the body

The body - a woman's best friend - is back in fashion. Get 'em while they're good.

Fashion trends for spring-summer 2011

There are lots of trends to choose from this season and for once, many are suitable for the over-40s

Spring clothing revamp

When the season changes, it's time to assess your wardrobe and buy to fill the gaps

Boden thumbnailJust a few new purchases each season can vamp up your whole wardrobe

Queen hosts fashion glitterati

Sad to see that the fashionistas are mostly so badly dressed.

The fashion pussycats put on their best togs to visit the Queen

Dressing to look thinner

There are times when most of us want to shed a pound or two visually.

Here's a bunch of tips for looking thinner in what you wear.

London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week has so far been curiously grown-up, which is very good news for the over-40s babe

Nicole Farhi thumbnailA palette of black, camel and grey prevailed at London's Fashion Week, but the mood was in no way sombre