Deconstructed clothes are neither in fashion nor out of it, so when fashion sucks, they give you somewhere to run for cover.
Another Japanese designer, whom for years I thought was an African woman (shows you all I know - he's a Japanese man), and whom I discovered on the designer floor at Liberty many moons ago. Weird, wonderful, wacky clothes, way out of my price range, but I would give my eye teeth for this super blouse. I might just have to run up something similar myself instead. Available online from Pollyanna.
Lived with Rei Kawakubo of Comme Des Garcons, if memory serves, and the work of each has influenced the other. Yohji, once known for his draped clothes, is now known for clothes that are often black, minimalist and elegant and have subtly different detailing. Conventional enough to wear to work, but with a twist such as a strange collar or interesting pockets. Available online from Pollyanna.
At the forefront, in the 90s, of the trend towards 'dressmaker' fashion - clothes that look deliberately home-made and hand-made. Margiela's clothes tend to show their construction details - seams on the outside, visible stitching etc. Not for everyone - it takes courage to make this look seem deliberate and not fancy dress, but a real antidote to the oh-so-perfect world of couture. Available from the Margiela website.
New to me, this label, but stocked by Pollyanna's in Barnsley - home of all that is great and good in fashion. I LOVE their jackets, which makes me wish that I lived a jacket-type of life, rather than a gumboots and sou-wester existence. Available online from Pollyanna.