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The best of the best

The Observer's list of best beauty buys

Click here for the Observer's review of best beauty products, including anti-ageing creams, red lipsticks, foundations and eye products.

Many of them are from the smaller companies rather than the big names, and most of them are out of my price range (anyone for Creme de la Mer?) but a few are in the budget ranges, including Mac and Rimmel. If you fancy indulging yourself, this list is pretty long and comprehensive. 

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Eco-friendly beauty

As times goes by, I realise I'm very much going back to basics with my beauty products

It made me smile recently to realise quite how much my bathroom is beginning to resemble my kitchen.

Partly it's to do with money - the desire to not keep sending it down the drain has sent me in search of cheaper, easier options for things like washing and cleaning. But it's also to do with not wanting to constantly surround myself with chemicals. Little by little, I am stripping chemicals out of the house and out of my beauty routine. 

Firstly, to cleaning. I now use only five things in the whole house: white vinegar, alcohol, washing soda, essential oils and detergent (basically washing up liquid). These five items can be used for every type of surface - loos, sinks, floors, work surfaces, windows etc. A quick spray of white vinegar works as well to clean the tub or the toilet as it does to neutralise cat odours or brighten up the windows, while washing soda will remove dirt and grease like nothing else in the world.

No more toxic soups under the sink - no more Dettols and Dettoxes, Zofloras and God knows what else, combining nastily together to fug up the house. In the flooding that Britain was subjected to last year, under-sink chemicals became a major health hazard and water polluter and I don't want to be responsible for anything like that. 

Even our air-freshener is eco. We gave up on commercial air fresheners many years ago, due to my asthma, but I forget sometimes how generally it isn't known that you can simply use essential oils. In each room, I have a small glass spray bottle with water containing about 10 drops of essential oil: shake it, spray it and Bob's your uncle. A recent visitor was incredibly impressed with how effective this is - he'd never come across anything like it. My favourite oils, personally, are clove, cinnamon, citronella and lavender, but this method means you can use whatever you want - in winter, it's quite nice to turn to eucalyptus or pine to help prevent colds.

I hadn't realised until last week quite how many of my beauty products I've also changed. The realisation came as the cat sat beside me on the edge of the bath and munched his way through my body scrub. I make this up every couple of weeks, from equal quantities of honey and almond flour, plus a few drops of lemon juice. Basically, as any cook might note, this is marzipan, and not only is it completely harmless and very cheap, it smells beautiful and leaves your skin delightfully soft. I can't imagine ever again buying a face or body scrub - they all smell disgustingly fake to me nowadays. 

Some months ago, too, I finally gave up on talcum powder altogether. I've known for a long time that you shouldn't use it because it's a suspected carcinogen, but a description I read of it being 'exactly like powdered asbestos' was what brought it home to me. Talc is a mineral, and it's not generally a good idea to grind up minerals and rub them all over yourself, especially if there's any danger of breathing them in.

I've switched instead to corn starch. Admittedly this has disadvantages - it has no perfume (though you can add some easily enough); it cakes, so you can't shake it; and it feels a bit squeaky on your skin. But lack of effectiveness isn't one of its drawbacks: corn starch is actually more absorbent than talcum powder ever was or could be. I keep mine in a nice old Edwardian era powder-puff container and apply it with a big fluffy puff but if you fancied something a tad more modern, Lush make body powders based on gram flour, and they're lovely to use, though you have to devote a bit of time to rubbing them in. 

When I ran out of conditioner recently, rather than shell out 5 euros for a new jar, I went back to an age-old method and simply made up some mayonnaise. It's not like commercial mayo, of course - it's simply an emulsion of egg yolks and olive oil without the vinegar or mustard. Apply it like any normal hair conditioner and leave for three minutes, then flush it down the drain as per. No parabens, no alpha-hyrdroxi-whatsits to bother the environment. It doesn't keep, though, so I only make up a small batch at a time, using a single egg. Between washes, I condition my hair with oil - any oil will do, but mine happens to be sweet almond. Just a drop on the palms of your hands, and combed in works well as a styling product and tames flyaway ends. 

On the side of the bath is also a bottle of cider vinegar. If you suffer from thrush, as I tend to, you really need cider vinegar in the bath, but even if you don't, a good splash of it helps to preserve the acid mantle on your skin. One friend, who is a roofer, uses it neat, rubbed into her hands and washed off, as a skin softener. You can also use it as a hair conditioner, rubbed well into the ends of your hair and rinsed out again. No, you don't end up smelling like a chip shop at all - it has a clean, pleasant smell that fades quickly in any case. 

And finally deoderant. I gave up anti-perspirants a long time ago, when I developed fibroid breast tumours. There's a suspected link, and it's only suspected, but why take the risk? So for a long time now, I've used a deoderant stone. This cost about 12 euros, and at the rate it's going, it will last a lot longer than I will. Mine is quite a sophisticated type, with a smooth top and you roll it on like any normal deoderant. I also made myself up a body freshener with witch hazel and essential oil of rosewood - a fresh-smelling oil that many of us associate with soap. And I also buy a commercial alum-only spray-on deoderant for days when I feel I need a bit more protection.

There's only one major snag to these kinds of natural deoderants - they don't work as well as anti-perspirants. So to be on the safe side, I always keep eau de cologne in the house, my handbag, and the car. A fantastic killer of bacteria (including the kind that breeds in your armpits), nothing kills pong faster than eau de cologne, liberally applied, as I learned when training as an aromatherapist. (It's required in French hospitals for bed-bathing and you have to bring it in yourself.)

Sadly, though, for those really anxiety-inducing days when you have to visit the ob-gyn or somesuch, I still haven't found a non-antiperspirant deoderant that can really cut the mustard, and I end up falling back on Dove or somesuch. So I'd be grateful for any tips if anyone else has found something that works. 

 

 

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Making a cult out of beauty

If you're looking for the best make-up sponges, eyelash curlers, foundation or face cream, check out this new UK-based beauty site

Cult Beauty, a new beauty website and glossy magazine, is now online.

The site aims to be the online arbiter for the best cult hair, beauty and grooming products from around the world. In order to remain independent, it does not accept beauty advertising.

The website will champion cult products that each stand out as the 'hero' product in their respective fields - products will be sourced and suggested both by Cult Beauty's own experts and by users. In other words, it'll be the best place to find those one-off products that can't be sourced outside the major cities. This could be a godsend for people like me, who live 40 miles from the nearest beauty shop and have to order everything online.

"We want to do for beauty what Net-a-porter has done for fashion - bringing the once inaccessible, undiscovered and elite gems in beauty to everyone," said Jessica Moore, the firm's managing director.

To use Cult Beauty, just visit the site and register. It only takes a couple of minutes and you can then browse to your heart's content by new item, colour, type of product, etc. The icons tell you if the product is animal-friendly, and you're given directions on how to use it. You can also do an advanced search by your skin type, hair colour etc.

After logging on, within seconds I spotted a flesh-coloured kohl liner of the kind I've been searching for for years. It's the Clarifying Pencil by 3 Custom Color and I will be ordering it right away. I've used white and pale pink kohl liners for years as an eye brightener, and they work like a charm, but if you want to touch up and not have it noticeable, a flesh-toned pencil is the way to go - and you can also use it as a spot concealer.

Cult Beauty delivers throughout the UK and Europe for a flat rate (£4.95 UK, £14.95 Europe).

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Thicker lashes, by nature or design

As you get older, you'll probably find your eyelashes aren't what they once were - here's some tips to restore the balance

blog imageFor a lot of women, a side effect of ageing is that their lashes get thinner and sparser - and their immediate reaction is to switch to a volumising mascara.

This is a mistake. As your lashes get thinner, they also get shorter, and a thickening mascara can give you a very clumpy look, like a teenager who's just learning. Far better is to switch to a lengthening mascara, with very very fine fibres in it, and apply two or three coats as needed. As with all mascara, open your eye wide and apply the product to the roots, then wiggle the brush up through your lashes. This way you get a natural look, and a strong eyeline. For daytime, stick to brown mascara unless you have jet-black hair, as anything else tends to look too harsh.

Personally I favour the Respectissime dual-end one by La Roche Posay, which has a conditioning wax at one end and the mascara at the other. The wax makes the mascara glide on really easily and stay put once it's there. Other manufacturers offer similar products.

For daytime, however, I recently also bought to their Definition mascara, which has a very fine wand and is perfect for building up exactly the coating you need without either lengthening or volumising your lashes. It's great if you have sensitive eyes, as it's fibre-free and hypoallergenic. In terms of how it looks once it's on, it reminds me of the old cake mascara from the 1960s, that you had to wet and then applied with a little stiff brush. This was time-consuming and fiddly, but the end result was very controllable and built up smoothly for a perfect result. Like that old kind of mascara, Definition is totally water soluble, so will streak your face at the slightest teardrop, but my eyes are so tender that I prefer this to a waterproof one.

Your 40s is also the time to think about false eyelashes for special occasions, and to practise in the bathroom (not five minutes before your wedding ceremony). The newer false lashes are a completely different animal from the spidery wings we all knew growing up (which went with purple, blue or green eyeshadow and frosted lipstick). They come in strips of varying lengths, look very natural, and you should just cut a few and apply them to the outer corner of your eye. Then curl your lashes as normal, then apply mascara as normal, and the whole lot should blend in nicely. For an idea of what's available, check out Ardell.

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There are, of course, even newer options on the market, such as lash extensions, which are woven into your existing eyelashes just like hair extensions on your head. This, I feel, is going too far down the route of decadence at $300 a time (plus endless top-ups that cost nearly $100), but a woman's money is her own to spend after all. The results are spectacular and you can see them here. Once you have eyelash extensions, you can't use waterproof mascara or oil-based make-up removers, or you'll bring the bonded lashes off, and there is one other downside - some doctors believe their overuse can lead to you losing your eyelashes altogether, a condition known as traction alopecia.

For women who have lost their eyelashes altogether - a situation that is becoming sadly more common due to chemotherapy - you can have an eyelash transplant. It isn't cheap, coming in at about $6,000 and currently performed only by one doctor in Florida (though he is training others), but the results are permanent. The transplants aren't eyelash hair - they're normal hair taken from your own head, so you have to trim them, dye them and curl them in order for them to look like normal lashes. Only you can decide if this is worth it (and by the way, the surgery's performed under local, not general anaesthetic). For details, check out this YouTube video.

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Lead in lipstick - just another health scare?

A friend sent me an email recently about lead in lipstick causing health problems

Apparently, this information was all over the web in late 2007. I must say I hadn't seen it - the idea of lead in lipstick was new to me. So I checked it out. Fortunately, it turned out to be another health scare. This time, it's been put about by a pressure group run by roughly half the cosmetics industry, who are campaigning against the other half. Lead suspects in the lead scandal are named as companies like Chanel, Shiseido and Lancome - all at the high end of the market.

Yes, lead is a neurotoxin, yes there is lead in lipstick, and no, the FDA does not set a safe level. That's very true. It does, however, set a safe level for lead in sweets, which is 0.1 part per million. Why? Because that's how good its measuring equipment is - lead in smaller concentrations can't currently be measured easily and cheaply. The guidelines on lead in drinking water are more stringent - 15 parts per billion. Why? Because it's generally assumed that you imbibe more water than you do sweeties, therefore the concentration needs to be lower.

The truth is, there's a trace amount of lead in virtually everything, and lead is a cumulative poison but the amount of lipstick you eat in a year is miniscule - only microns. Over a lifetime of constant lipstick wearing, you eat about five pounds of it. It would be extremely difficult to poison yourself with lipstick except by chomping it down in vast quantities - something the cosmetics companies don't generally recommend.

Obviously, if you're concerned about lead, then by all means seek out lead-free lipsticks. But be sure of what you're looking for. Water pipes containing less than 0.2 per cent lead are 'lead-free', and the source of the lead in lipsticks is generally the beeswax. Damn those toxic bees, huh? Apparently the little buggers are so polluted these days that almost no beeswax remains uncontaminated other than that from some African countries such as Zambia. Long way to go for your lipsalve...

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All-in-one makeup

My friend Susie put me onto this product the other day.

Go Natural is an all-in-one makeup. Basically it's a heat-activated bronzer: you just apply it to your face, adding a bit extra where you want more effect, such as lips, eyes and cheeks and voila, claim the manufacturers, you look healthier and fully made up.

 

 

Concealer is a girl's best friend

Once you hit your 40s and above, you'll really benefit if you learn how to use concealer. As you get older, your complexion becomes more uneven and concealer helps enormously to even it out. It's particularly useful under the eyes for making you look well-rested and if you learn to apply it properly, can even turn you away from surgery if you're considering it.

Concealers have also come a long way from the hideous, sticky products of the 1970s and 80s, so now's the time to try again if you have bad memories of your teenage years!

Practice makes perfect when it comes to makeup

Not sure about how to apply makeup? Or stuck in a rut? Practice is the key to perfection.

Until recently it hadn't occurred to me to practise applying makeup. It seemed a tad self-indulgent at my age, if not plain silly. After all, I'd been wearing makeup for 30-odd years, hadn't I? I knew what suited me, didn't I?