Beauty & Hair

Creating your perfect look - cosmetics, make-up, skincare, hair styles, cosmetic surgery and beauty issues for the over-40s woman.

More airbrushing nonsense

Advertisers certainly don't want to give up the power to screw us over without us knowing.

Ralph Lauren imageFollowing an earlier article I wrote on the subject, I was pointed at this article by a Second Cherry reader, about a campaign to have digitally altered images labelled as such.

It is only a shame that, as usual, the moves to force the use of more realistic imagery of women in advertising are so heavily blocked by corporate interests. 

It is principally by making women feel dissatisfied with themselves, after all, that the fashion and beauty industry can continue to sell us products we don't actually need, and they have billions of dollars invested in making us feel crap. 

Mentioned in the article is the incident last October when Ralph Lauren attempted to take down bloggers who reproduced the ghastly ad shown at top left (in which the model's pelvis had been photoshopped to be smaller than her head). Ralph Luaren claimed copyright infringement, but BoingBoing claimed fair comment, and won. 

So, folks, here it is again, just to annoy Ralph Lauren.

I'm sure we are all well aware that ALL images are now retouched, but few people realise by quite how much. It t'olden days, every bit of retouching took a deal of time and could only be done once, so freckles, etc, were removed and eyes brightened, but there was no time to go around lenthening legs and bodies and arms and necks in the way it is almost universally done today.

The average model today has been Photoshopped to look like 'an anorexic with a  boob job' says one commentator, and that is about right, but so bad is the retouching on the Ralph Lauren image above that some people believe it MUST have been a publicity stunt. 

Ralph Lauren altered imageWhy then did the same company use this image (near right) just a week later in another campaign? Note the hips, which are about half the width of the poor girl's shoulders - you can see her correct proportions in the right-hand image. 

And why did Filippa Hamilton, the model in the jeans ad, later say she had been fired for 'being too fat'? If you want to see just how fat her size 8 figure is, click here.

The thing is, Ralph Lauren has a track record where this is concerned. Anyone much younger than me is probably too young to remember the controversy they caused in the early 1980s when they were among the first companies to use really spectacularly thin models. Their girl of choice back then was Saffron Aldridge, who was considerably thinner and bonier than the usual models of the day such as Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell. Not since the late 1940s when many of the most famous models were suffering from malnutrition had we seen such angular cheekbones. But little by little we all got used to the bony look until it somehow became the norm. 

Now, though, it's all gone way too far, when the 'desireable' image thrust at women is not only to be underweight and follow a body shape (wide shoulders, big boobs, very tall) that falls only to very few, but be thin to a degree that is actually anatomically impossible

 

 

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Terrible Photoshopping

No wonder women feel so bad about themselves when they're routinely presented with images like this.

RedbookCheck out Jezebel's favourite awful cover shot of the year.

The cover girl means nothing to me - an American singer, apparently - and you don't realise quite how bad this Photoshopping is until you see the befores and afters, which Jezebel has outlined in horrible detail. No real human being can anatomically look like this. Just as a clue, look at the length and width of her left arm.

It is very worrying that we are all becoming so used to these airbrushed images and even more disappointing when this mag is aimed at older women. Shame on them.

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Hollywood glamour

A little bit of Photoshopping does all of us good...

Hollywood TrishThere's a little bit inside all of us that wants to look glamorous.

As any of my friends could testify, I actually look nothing like the pictures of me on this blog. These photos are the result of a 'Hollywood' photo session the DH and I played around with a couple of years ago. In real life I don't lie around on fox furs and pearls and I too have spots, freckles, wrinkles and all the rest of the issues that face most women.

But I'm also lucky enough to be married to Steve - who knows his way around Photoshop. 

Having been hugely impressed by his various photos of me that were pinned up around the room at our Black and White party, some of my girlfriends expressed a wish to be 'done' in the same way. So on Saturday we had a girls night in and two of them duly posed (while the rest of them stood around and made comments, naturally). 

Hollywood MikkiFirst up was Mikki, and here she is, thoroughly glamour-pussed. I did my bit with make-up and clothes (she's wearing a full 'Marilyn' makeup and swathed in metallic organza - not that you can tell), but the DH did the rest - the cleverest thing is that he's made her hair longer.

As Mikki - mum to a 12-year-old daughter and who stomps around in DMs - would be the first to admit, she doesn't look like this every day, but this is how she'd like to look, and now she's got a fabulous photo to show her future grandchildren. 

AlexSecond to give it a try was Alex, swathed in 1930s furs and looking phenomenally elegant - a big change from her usual wellies and jeans as she pulls baby lambs out of her pet sheep. 

The rest of the girls wimped out on the night - convinced, I think, that they are beyond repair, though I suspect they may change their minds once they see the pictures. 

In real life, of course, both girls looked more drag queen than diva. The thick, matt makeup required to stand up to the photographic lights is unpleasant to wear, and the eye makeup is black and white in order to gain maximum contrast. When I did it, I was itching to get it off my face afterwards but I hear that Alex decided to keep hers overnight and went to bed in full slap, hoping some of it would still be there the next day.

 

 

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Tools of the trade

A small arsenal of well-designed tools can prove very useful in the make-up box.

Slant tweezerIn keeping with my Desirable Dozen makeup products, I thought I'd review a dozen beauty tools that I, as a grown-up girl, find useful.

Not every woman needs an arsenal of beauty products, but - just as in the kitchen or sewing room - having a few decent tools makes a job SO much easier and can often be a better use of funds than buying new products.

An important part of your arsenal is brushes, which can be either synthetic or natural hair. With natural hair, the colour 'sinks' into the hair itself, while with synthetic, it tends to sit on top. Which you prefer is largely a matter of choice - I like synthetic eye brushes but natural lip brushes, for instance.

What I don't like, any longer, is foam-tip applicators. I find brushes allow you to blend your makeup far better, which becomes increasingly crucial as you get older and have more facial hair and fine lines to work around. 

Take good care of your tools and they will go on for a long time - I've been using the same lip brush for nearly 30 years.  Wash your brushes weekly with shampoo or liquid soap (trying not to get too much water into the metal bit that holds the bristles). Dry on a towel, then leave hanging over the edge of a shelf or radiator, so nothing distorts the bristles.

Here are my top dozen tools:

1 Tweezerman Slant eyebrow tweezers (above). Don't wase money on other makes - Tweezerman makes tweezers that grab and pull cleanly at the tiniest hairs. If you do one thing, shape your eyebrows - even without makeup, this will give a frame to your face.

eyelash curlers2 Eyelash curlers (right). Nothing makes you look more awake and alert. Mine are just from Boots, but they look a lot like these posh Shu Uemura ones. Run them under a warm tap for 20 seconds or so before use and you'll get a better curl.  

Eyelash/eyebrow duo3 Eyebrow brush. It should look like a little toothbrush. I use the one on the end of an old Ultima eye pencil. For the best results, brush your eyebrows straight up, then go along the top and gently comb any stray hairs back into place. This Yves Rocher one does double duty with...

...4 Eyelash comb. Great for separating lashes and stopping your mascara from looking clumpy. Again, mine is just an old one from a dead mascara. 

5 Mediwipes. For wiping over your makeup brushes after every use.  You should also wash your brushes once a week to avoid contamination. 

Eyeshadow brush6 Eyeshadow brush. This should be quite big and fluffy, but flat. It's for blending, something that must become your mantra as you get older. All the brushes shown here are from Yves Rocher, which makes good brushes for a reasonable price.

blusher brush7 Blusher brush (right). Again, this should be wide but flat and angled at the tip, for stroking on colour. The angled tip spreads out in just the right way on your cheekbone. 

powder brush8 Powder brush. This should be huge and fluffy, with a rounded end. Dip it into the powder, knock the excess off and use just the smallest amount to set your foundation, dabbing your skin as if you were stippling paint. Then use the brush to lightly stroke your facial hairs in the right direction. 

Eyeliner brush9 Eyeliner brush (right). You use this sideways - it should be very thin, flat and cut at an angle at the end, with quite stiff bristles. Applying your liner 'sideways' like this makes life a lot easier, as you will know if you've ever tried to apply liquid liner in a straight line. 

lip brush10 Lip brush. Shoves your lip colour right into the creases of your lips and gives your makeup real staying power. It should be narrow, with a sharply pointed end. Best in natural hair. After washing your brush each week, wet the brush in your mouth and pull it out through your pursed lips and leave it to dry - your saliva sets the end into a perfect poin (a technique still used on squirrelhair paint brushes).

11 Latex sponge. Soft as a baby's breath, this can be used wet or dry for applying foundation. Alternatively, use a foundation brush, which looks like an eyeshadow brush, only bigger.

12 Cotton buds. Have these ready to hand and dipped in oil-free eye make up remover for correcting any spills or slips as you go. 

13 Pencil sharpener with two slots - one for normal-size pencils and one for big pencils. 

14 Concealer brush, if you don't use Touche Eclate, which has its own brush built-in. This allows you to position your concealer accurately - especially important for dark circles under your eyes. It lookks like an eyeshadow brush, only smaller.

 

 

Before and after - Cameron Diaz

Even Cameron Diaz gets photoshopped in magazine pictures

cameron diazcameron diazIn the second of this occasional series on retouching, let's take a look at Cameron Diaz.

Diaz is a remarkably beautiful woman - she was a leading model before she was a leading actress - but it's clearly still not good enough for some magazine editors. 

Above you can see some classic photoshopping - in the 'after' picture on the right, her complexion's been evened out, her eyes made super-white like an alien, lips highlighted and her whole face and hair lightened and brightened. 

cameron hipscameron hips afterLeft, you can see her hips, from the same shot. Again, in the 'after' picture (on the right) the skintone has been evened out, and the shadow under the external oblique muscle has been lightened, giving her a smoother, more 'feminine' belly (the opposite would probably have been done if she'd been a man). A sliver of flesh has also been removed from the right hip. 

When even one of the most beautiful women in the world doesn't cut the mustard, what hope for the rest of us?

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A new year, a new look

A new year has left me itching for a new haircut to go with it

thumbI'm hoping this angled bob will just melt the years away...

Before and after - Nicolette Sheridan

Number one in our new series on what Photoshop can do for you is Nicollette Sheridan

If we all had access to Photoshop, we might all look as good as this...

The desirable dozen

Twelve foolproof makeup products for women over 40

MaybellineOnce you hit 40, you need makeup products that go on fast, give reliable results and stay put. Here are 12 of the best

Brits are ugly - it's official

Anyone fancy a website takedown?

Sock it to the pretty ones

Another con foisted on gullible women

The Oralift is meant to haul up the lower part of your face - which frankly is the least it should do for the price....

Another silly fad that's meant to turn back the clock.

Quick skincare tip

Here's a quick and gentle way to apply moisturiser

This tip from a makeup artist has improved the look of my skin.

The eye of the beholder

This collaboration between the beauty industry and the medical profession has some fantastic results

HopeBeauty isn't just skin deep...

More solutions for problems we haven't got...

Do your eyelashes need fertilising? No, mine neither...

Allergan has launched a product called Latisse to make your eyelashes grow. Shame about those pesky side effects, then.

What SPFs actually mean

You may be as well off with SPF 15 as with SPF 60

Sun protection factors aren't all that they seem to be.

A little bit of lippy does you good

Wearing makeup is a sin against feminism, according to Julie Bindel. Get a life, say I

I wish Julie Bindel would get off her high horse