13 Jul 2012
Beauty news for 13 July 2012
Beauty news and releases this week.
* Australian brand Aesop has opened its fourth outlet in Paris, in rue Tiquetonne. The décor, in collaboration with architecture firm Ciguë, features two walls in raw sycamore.
* In September, L’Oreal brand Kiehl’s will release a line of four fragrances costing 62 euros each, also available as shower gel and body lotion (24 and 26 euros respectively). Meant to evoke a tour of Japan, the first is based on nashi pear flower and grapefruit; another evokes Morocco with orange flower and lychee; another Uganda with vanilla and cedar; and the last the Provencal hinterland with fig and sage.
* This month, Italian fashion firm Costume National will preview its new EDP at Printemps in France and Selfridges in London, prior to a September rollout. Called So Nude, it has head notes of cardamom, cumin and neroli, heart notes of ylang-ylang, damask rose and tuberose, and base notes of patchouli and cedar. The ecru packaging was designed by the firm’s founder. It costs 57-109 euros, depending on size.
* Valentino is launching a new fragrance, Valentina Assoluto, an upmarket flanker to Valentina (it will be a Harrods exclusive in July, followed by Europe in August). A chypre, it includes Italian bergamot, white Alba truffle, Smeggia peach, jasmine, tuberose, vanilla, cedar, oakmoss, patchouli and chypre. The nose is Olivier Cresp of Firmenich. The bottle is opaline brown glass in the shape of a rose, with a copper cap topped in black pearl. The price will be 85-108 euros depending on size. Distribution will be more selective than the original fragrance - around 5,000 outlets.
* Ylang in Gold is a new perfume out this month, from Parfums M.Micallef. It has head notes of tangerine, geranium and artemisium, heart notes of ylang-ylang, rose, sandalwood, lily of the valley and magnolia, and base notes of coconut, vanilla and musk. The hand-gilded bottles are made by Swarovski. It will cost 195 euros for 100ml from M.Micallef in Cannes and Chez Jovoy, Paris only.
* French men's brand Le Baigneur has released a range of organic soaps with a masculine flavour. Tonifiant contains cameline oil and activated charcoal; Exfoliant contains coco pulp, shea butter and white clay, and Relaxant contains petitgrain bigarade, avocado oil and green clay. 11 euros for 100g from Ecocentric.fr.
* On 2 July, Chanel launched its summer limited edition, Blue Illusion, consisting of blue eyeshadows, blue nail varnish, nude blush and lipstick.
* Nars has released a new blush palette, well ahead of its August 1 schedule, called Foreplay. Based on the Orgasm blush, the firm says it is 'Orgasm deconstructed' and contains matt shades of salmon, peach, pink and gold. $49 only from Sephora.
* C.H.O. Nature has released Gommage Visage Lumiere, a skin scrub based on jojoba, acai berries and lavender. 49 euros for 75ml.
* Spa range Sens&Spirit has released Le Regard, which it describes as a ‘youthful gel’ to moisturise and reduce fatigue and congestion. It includes amethyst, malachite and hyaluronic acid. 49.50 euros.
* La Sultane de Saba is a new range of skin and bodycare products based on Malaysian recipes and with a champaca fragrance. It comprises exfoliating skin wax with ground sea shell, coconut and organic cane sugar (36 euros for 314ml); body milk spray (25 euros for 100ml); shea butter ‘intense’ (36 euros for 314ml) and body oil spray (33 euros for 100ml).
A brave decision by Angelina Jolie
Jolie announces double mastectomy to prevent breast cancer.
Actress Angelina Jolie has announced today that she has undergone a double mastectomy to prevent her developing breast cancer. Jolie, who saw her mother die of the disease at 56, has a rare gene which gave her an 87 per cent chance of developing the disease and says she took the decision in order to be around for her children. She also has a high risk of ovarian cancer.
All kudos to Ms Jolie for taking the opportunities offered by modern medicine, for being brave enough to announce it when she is so public a figure and famed for her beauty, and for having continued to carry out her work as a UN ambassador campaigning on behalf of women raped in war while undergoing several procedures for the removal and reconstruction of her breasts.
I wish her a speedy recovery and long life, and hope that if she has to make a similar decision to have her ovaries removed that she is able to do so with the same grace and equanimity.
Sir Colin Davis RIP
Sir Colin Davis dies at the age of 85
Very sad to hear the news this morning of the death of the conductor Sir Colin Davis. His recordings have given me many hours of pleasure. RIP Sir Colin. Thank you for Mozart, thank you for Sibelius, thank you for A Child of Our Time. I hope you've crossed over into campground.
Marks and Spencer launches Schwop Shop in Marble Arch
Celebs donate unwanted garments.
Marks and Spencer (M&S) has launched an Oxfam charity pop-up ‘shwop’ shop at its Marble Arch flagship store to encourage shoppers to pass on items of unwanted clothing.
Garments have been donated by more than 40 celebrities, including Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe, Joanna Lumley and Pixie Lott, and the shop will be staffed by some famous faces.
To gain entry, shoppers have to bring in an unwanted item of clothing as a donation, which Oxfam will then re-use or recycle.
“The aim is to change people’s attitudes towards clothes recycling and give unwanted garments a future,” said Adam Elman of M&S. "We hope this will inspire a new generation of shwoppers who see fashion and sustainability as one."
M&S began its Schwop scheme, allowing shoppers to bring in used or unwanted clthing, back in April 2012, since when 2.8 million garments have been donated.
Beauty news 18 January 2013
Beauty news and product releases this week.
* Lollipops cosmetics has opened its first point of sale in Germany, in the Douglas perfumery in Dusseldorf, featuring a new stand, called ‘Boudoir’ - a girly pink display case. The firm envisages it will have 50 points of sale in Germany, 10 in Austria, and 20 in the Netherlands, all in Douglas outlets.
* Couturier Alber Albaz will be producing a makeup range under the Lancome banner, to be launched on 15 June. A teaser ad for the range began airing on Monday, via Lancome’s Facebook page and YouTube channel.
* Skin diagnostics brand Ioma has tripled its distribution in Austria, three months after its launch, in Marionnaud. It is now present in 64 of the chain’s perfumeries.
* French niche naturals brand Absolution has added a new product to its range – Day and Night Facial Oil (60 euros for 30ml). Made up of 27 natural extracts and essential oils, it includes evening primrose oil, grapeseed oil, white lily extract, arnica flower, prickly pear, musk rose and sandalwood.
* In February, selective Swiss firm Swiss Line (by Dermalab) will add a new product to its high-end anti-ageing Cell Shock line: Le Cell Shock 360 degree Anti-Wrinkle Serum Triple Collagen Complex (174 euros for 30ml). It contains Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Facteur de Collagène Protecteur, hyaluronic acid and several patented compounds exclusive to the firm such as Complexe Matrice-Ocean. Available only from the firm’s website.
* Hotel cosmetics producer ADA is launching the ‘Fair Trade’ range of cosmetics for hotels. Entirely plant-based, it includes shower gel, shampoo with sugar cane from the Ile de Maurice, body lotion and conditioner with Brazil nut oil from Bolivia and avocado oil soap from Kenya.
* In March, French skincare firm Veld’s will launch Xim Up Bouche, a lip plumping cream for use day or night, or under makeup: 38 euros for a 10ml tube plus a 5ml travelling tube. In April, it will launch Age 20 Masque anti-age d’hydration profonde – an intense hydrating mask. 43 euros for 60ml. Available from Nocibé, Printemps and pharmacies.
* In February, Lanvin will release a new limited edition fragrance, Marry Me à La Folie, a flanker to Marry Me (2010). Notes are bitter orange, blackcurrant, rose, jasmine, cedar and musk. Neon-pink bottle and packaging. 30ml and 50ml EDP.
* In February, Guerlain will release Shalimar Parfum Initial L’Eau Si Sensuelle, a flanker to Shalimar Parfum Initial L’Eau (2012). Nosed once again by Thierry Wasser, the notes include bergamot, neroli, grapefruit, rose, iris, jasmine, vanilla and tonka bean. It will be available in 30ml, 50ml and 10ml EDT, and the bottle will be the usual Shalimar shape but in frosted glass.
* Towards Valentine’s Day, L’Occitane en Provence will release Cerisier Papillon, with notes of bay leaf, raspberry, rose, cherry, peony, cherry extract and rosewood. It comes in a pretty bottle decorated with cherry blossom. 50ml EDT, shower gel, body lotion, hand cream and butterfly-shaped scented soap.
* Paris-based perfumery Téo Cabanel (the Duchess of Windsor's favourite perfumery) has released Hegoa, a unisex EDT nosed by Jean-François Latty. Notes include lemon, bergamot, mandarin, rose, green tea, woods, ambers and musks. 50ml EDT (50 euros), 100ml, 80 euros from Douglas Premium, independent perfumeries, spas and hotels such as George V in Paris, plus the firm's website and Fontainebleu boutique. Launch was October but only just announced (had no PR before!).
* Euromonitor has announced the top 10 trends for global consumption in 2013: spending on convenience nudging into the search for value; the return of more overcrowded housing with adult children returning home to live and divorcing couples being forced to cohabt for economic reasons; digital life making leisure time harder to define as people use the internet for leisure pursuits; the celebration of food; the end of gender-specific consumption patterns and more unisex marketing; localism; the rise of the working elderly as people find themselves unable to retire; changing parenting patterns; shopping like it’s the future; and consumer concerns such as the needs of larger customers.
Beauty news for 12 January 2013
Beauty news and product releases this week.
* Diptyque has opened its fourth US branch, in Chicago, at North Damen Street in Wicker Park. Created by Studio Jenner, the interior is designed to echo Chicago’s indigenous architecture and local native American art, especially the beadwork of the Potawatomi tribe.
* Eva Herzigova is to be the new face of Dior’s Capture Totale anti-ageing range.
* Organic French brand Charme D’Orient has added an organic eau micillaire makeup remover to its range, containing orange flower water and rose water. 18 euros for 150ml.
* Diptyque has released a limited-edition candle, Rose Duet, comprising two separate fragrances – ‘Roses’ and ‘Baies’, in a pink glass pot with the Diptyque oval on the side. 190g, 48 euros.
* New perfumery Parfums Franck Olivier is launching a male/female fragrance duo called Bamboo (the bottle has a bamboo design on it). The women’s EDP has notes of ivy leaf, violet leaf and black currant; freesia, ylang-ylang, rose and lily; and vetiver, musk and cedar. It is available as 50 and 75 ml. The men’s EDT has notes of mandarin, bergamot, lemon and grapefruit; blackcurrant, nutmeg, pine and immortelle; and cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, amber, fir tree resin and vanilla. It too comes in 50 and 75 ml.
* Master French patissier Christophe Felder has launched a gourmand perfume, Explosion Gourmande, with notes of caramel, rose, lychee juice and two aromas from the SmellTheTaste collection created by fragrance and flavours company Firmenich – Caramel Blanc and Sucre Brun. It costs 49.65 euros for 100ml from Club Createurs de Beauté.
* Gucci has launched Forever Now at the Gucci museum in Florence. Notes include Florentine iris, bergamot, orange blossom, lavender, leather, amber, musk, patchouli and vetiver. 100mls costs 170 euros from the museum, Gucci boutiques and the Gucci website.
* Gucci will also launch Gucci Guilty Black Pour Femme and Gucci Guilty Black Pour Homme this year, in black glass bottles with red or green colourways. Gucci Guilty Black Pour Femme has notes of pink pepper, red fruit, raspberries and peaches, lily and violet, and patchouli and amber and comes as a 30, 50 and 75 ml EDT, 200 ml body lotion and 200 ml shower gel. Gucci Guilty Black Pour Homme has notes of green coriander and lavender, orange blossom, neroli and green-aromatic notes, and cedar and patchouli. It comes as 50 and 90 ml EDT, 90ml aftershave and 150ml shower gel.
* Cartier is launching a flanker to Eau de Cartier called Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose. Created by perfumer Mathilde Laurent, it is pink in colour and comes in a pink and white box. 73.42 euros for 50ml, 98.71 euros for 100ml.
* Cavalli is launching Roberto Cavalli Acqua, in a turquoise bottle, 50ml EDT. It is based on jasmine, lily of the valley and musk. The ad campaign has been shot by Bruce Weber and features Nine d’Urso, daughter of Ines de la Fressange. 30ml, 50ml, 75ml formats.
* Bottega Veneta will launch Bottega Veneta Eau Legère this spring, a flanker to ‘Bottega Veneta’. Created by Michel Almairac, it is based on bergamot, pink pepper, gardenia, jasmine, oakmoss and musk.
* Clinique has launched a limited-edition version of Happy, called Happy in Bloom (50ml, 37 euros), with notes of apricot, frozen fruit, freesia, mimosa, incense, woody notes and blond wood.
* This spring, Fendi is launching a flanker to its Fan di Fendi range, Fan di Fendi Eau Fraiche. Designed by Delphine Lebeau-Krowiak, François Demachy and Benoist Lapouza, it has notes of bergamot, lemon, cardamom, white flowers, green tea, woody notes and leather.
* French ingredients producer Soliance has launched a new slimming/anti-ageing body care ingredient, Pro-DG. Developed using a microalgae, Dysmorphococcus globosus, it is meant to break down fat. Expect to see it incorporated into body products by next year.
* A study by French scientists working under Dr Phillippe Walter has shown that nano gold particles may provide a permanent form of hair colouring.
* Researchers in Hong Kong have found that resvaterol in red grapes can delay premature ageing.
* Unilever has said it aims to phase out microplastics from its personal care ranges by 2015 due to environmental concerns that they can accumulate in marine eco systems.
Women bear the brunt of Cameron's cuts
Working women will be hardest hit by benefit and tax credit cuts.
04 January beauty news
Beauty news for the start of 2013
* Inter Parfums has signed a 10-year deal for the fragrance licence of Alfred Dunhill. It will take over from Proctor & Gamble on April 3. A new men’s fragrance will be developed for the label in 2014.
* Annemarie Borlind has launched a new organic range, Body Lind, based on fig, camellia oil, sesame oil, macadamia and argan. It comprises: Baume Douche (with betaine, 200ml 12.50 euros); Crème Corporelle (150ml, 20.90 euros), Lotion Corporelle (200ml, 19.90), Baume Corporelle (200ml, 21.90), Spray Deodorant Naturel (75ml, 12 euros); and Baume Deodorant rollon (50ml, 12 euros).
* Niche brand Charme d’Orient has added an organic eau micillaire to its range. 18 euros for 150ml.
* The third edition of the Lexique de l’esthetique et de la cosmetique has just been published – a dictionary of English beauty terminology. 17.75 euros, 112pp.
* Perfumers have different brains from the rest of the population, according to a study published in NeuroImage magazine, and the longer they study, the more grey matter they have in their olfactive centres.
* Bottega Veneta: Eau Legere by Michel Almairac. A leathery floral chypre with bergamot and pink pepper. Due out in spring in 30ml, 50ml and 75ml format with an ad campaign shot by Bruce Weber.
* Jil Sander: The Essentials – a new collection of reissues of discontinued fragrances (Woman III from 1985, Bath and Beauty from 1982, Scent 79 Man from 1981 and Jil Sander Pure for Men from 2004). 50ml EDT.
* Viktor & Rolf: Flowerbomb Christmas 2012 limited edition, in 50ml format and gift sets with body products. Based on centifolia rose, jasmine, cattleya orchids, patchouli…
* Givenchy: Gentlemen Only. A modern woody with cedar, patchouli and vetiver. 50ml EDT with aftershave and deodorant. The face of the fragrance will be acor Simon Baker.
* Kenzo: Kenzo Couleur, a new collection for spring 2013. First up in the collection, Rose-Pink (floral spicy) and Jaune-Yellow (citrus, bergamot, jasmine). In 50ml EDP format.
* Dior: Homme Cologne designed by renowned nose by Francois Demachy. Based on calabrian bergamot, grapefuit blossom and musk, it will be embodied by Jude Law. In 75ml and 125ml.
* Nina Ricci: Nina L’Eau with apple, grapefruit, mandarin, neroli, this is due for a January release. 30, 50 and 80ml EDT.
Beauty News for 25 November 2012
Beauty news and releases this week.
* In December, hair styling firm 365C is setting up a pop-up shop in Paris's Bon Marché, which will become permanent if it’s successful. 365c offers a concept that is new in France – cheap, fast hair styling with no shampoos or cuts, only dressing such as plaiting, chignons, etc. Users can choose from a range of catwalk-inspired styles each season and it costs about 15 euros for a 15-minute hairdo.
* A design exhibition at Berlin’s Galerie Henrik Springman is featuring wearable nail sculptures and a pop-up nail salon with nail artists Monika Zbijowska of Top Nail World and Sophie Robson of This Is Nail Porn. ‘Imperial Nail Salon’, by artist Dzine, follows up his book of last year, Nailed, which looked at personal expression through nail art. The artist says he wants to attract visitors who would normally never enter an art gallery. Most works have already been sold but the exhibition runs to the end of December.
* L’Oreal is to launch a new line and concept in the US – Advanced Hair Care, based around the idea that hair, like facial skin, ‘requires’ an ongoing care regime (thus encouraging us to buy yet more products we didn't know we needed...). Rollout will begin in mid-December prior to full launch in January and features the lines Total Repair 5, Smooth Intense, Power Moisture, Color Vibrancy and Triple Resist, each consisting of shampoo, conditioner and complementary products.
* Diptyque has announced its winter scented candle box set, with three winter scents of Opoponax, Oliban and Feu du Bois: 66 euros. The firm has also announced its winter interior-exterior candle, with hand-thrown enamelled pots created by Virebent. Tuberose scented, it costs a whopping 190 euros for an equally whopping 1,500g.
* Fragrance firm Le Labo is now making all of its fragrances available in perfume oil format for those who prefer to avoid alcohol. The oil is safflower and comes in a 1oz dropper bottle.
* In February 2013, Ferragamo will launch Acqua Essentziale, a male fragrance with top notes of mint and lemon, heart notes of geranium, rosemary, lavender and Cascalone molecule, and base notes of patchouli, vetiver, cistus and the Helveltolide musk molecule. Created by Alberto Morillas. The firm is also releasing Signorina Eau de Toilette, a flanker to the EDP of the same name, launched in 2011 and designed by the same noses as before, Sophie Labbe and Juliette Karagueuzoglou.
* Sergio Tacchini has released Precious Purple, a fresh floral with bergamot, ginger, green apple, water lily, peony, jamine and cedar, amber and musk.
* French perfume house Esteban has added the fragrance Belle au Parfum de Oud to its stable (review to follow). Top notes are mandarin, cistus and saffron, ylang-ylang and lily, and nagamotha, patchouli, oud and labdanum. It costs 80 euros for 50ml.
* Lalique will issue a limited-edition bottle for its Lalique de Lalique fragrance in 2013. It features its famous dragonfly, this time black in colour, on top of a clear glass bottle of concentric circles representing waves of water.
* Grès will introduce three new fragrances in 2013: Cabotine Eau Vivide, Cabotine Fleur Splendide and Madame Grès! Eau Vivide is a female fragrance created by Richard Ibanez, with head notes of lemon, blackcurrant and freesia, heart notes of rose, lily of the valley and sea accords and a base of peach, white cedar, musk and salycilate (aspirin). It is available in 50 and 10ml EDT. Fleur Splendide is a modern chypre-oriental created by Mylene Alran, with head notes of bergamot, white peach and freesia, heart notes of rose, jasmine and sandalwood and a base of patchouli, amber and musk. Available in 50 and 10ml EDT. Madame Grès! was created by Sidonie Lancesseur and has head notes of grapefruit, pineapple and cardamom, heart notes of magnolia, white peony and freesia, and base notes of vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli and ‘charismatic skin’. In 100ml EDP.
* Swedish home-sales firm Oriflame has created Espionage - a male fragrance inspired by James Bond. Nosed by Fabric Pellegrin, it has head notes of bergamot, red wine and kirsch, heart notes of amber, clary sage and marine ozone, and base notes of vetiver and cedar. 50ml EDT. The firm is also launching Sparkle in Paris, a women’s fragrance that ties in with a body care range and a jewellery range sold in the firm’s catalogues. It has head notes of blackberry, pink grapefruit and pink pepper, heartnotes of orange blossom, sambac jasmine and champagne and base notes of musk and vetiver. Comes as 50ml EDT, 300ml shower gel, 200ml shimmer body lotion, deodorant stick, colour products, earrings and a watch, as well as a reed diffuser home fragrance.
* In December, couture house Jacques Fath will present a new women’s fragrance, Les Folies de Fath. Head notes of pink pepper (Pink Pepper Jungle Essence), blackcurrant, pear, bergamot and lychee; heart notes of iris root absolute, rose absolute, orange blossom absolute and essence of pepper; base notes of incense, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla and musk. In 50ml, 100ml EDP and 10ml rollerball EDP.
* Jeanne Arthes has announced three new fragrances: Sexy Me No 4 (mandarin, peach, orchid, jasmine, raspberry, patchoui and musk); Cobra Hot Game for men (tangerine, mint, grapefruit, nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, rose, leather, patchouli, blond wood, amber) and Cobra Ice Breaker for men (mint, green apple, basil, freesia, aromatic notes, pine and precious wood). The male fragrances also come in coffrets with body-care products. The firm has also announced a four-strong collection for girls, Jeans Tonic, aimed at 15-25 year old fashion-conscious girls. Expect cheap pricing of about 17 euros.
* Researchers in Italy have found a way to test the caffeine and iodide content of anti-ageing products to help prevent intoxication. Wearing a body cream with caffeine can put women over the suggested limit if they also drink coffee.
* Dutch chemicals giant Unilever, which manufactures Axe and Dove, has teamed with environmental research firm Earth 911 to try to establish a way to recycle deodorant packaging, which is currently causing major problems with landfill.
* Bach's double violin concerto, played by Simon Standage and the English Concert on period instruments.
* the ache in my muscles after 30 lengths in the pool this morning.
* the tartes au citron we had after lunch.
* the roaring woodburner.
* the snoring dog.
Beauty news for 16 November 2012
Beauty news and releases this week.
* Sephora is revamping its first store in Canada, in Toronto, expanding by 3,700 sqft to 8,941sqft and featuring a number of new brands.
* Niche French brand Miss Ferling is launching its first body care line, Le Ciel en Soi, with products based on white ingredients such as oats, rice powder and talc, and perfumed with white flowers. The products will be full size, in contrast to the others in the range, which are handbag size in order to encourage impulse purchase at the checkout.
* Tautropfen has released a new serum, Tresor des Incas, based on Amaranth oil, leatherwood honey and kakadu extract. 39 euros fro 50ml.
* Two to three per cent of the population are allergic to common spices used in cosmetics products such as curry leaf, cinnamon, ginger and turmeric, according to researchers at the American College of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology.
Beauty news, 12 November 2012
Beauty news and releases this week
* Niche French perfumery Serge Lutens has launched a US website, enabling US customers to buy the Palais Royal exclusive range online for the first time. Prices are in line with the firm’s (very few) US distributors, such as Barney’s (so a perfume that costs 130 euros in Europe costs $300 in the US – about 235 euros). This, the firm assures me, is because of the tax situation in the US, though it also makes sense that the firm can't undercut its distributors. The French site has also been revamped to match the US one, and as well as a new look and feel, both sites now group the fragrances into families and give brief, poetic descriptions to make it easier to understand the fumes, if you're not so familiar with them. The sites are also smartphone enabled, so you can browse while you're mobile.
* Chanel has called on the European Commission to change its fragrance regulatory system, for fear it will mean the abandonment of some of its classic fragrances. In July, the scientific safety arm of the EC recommended the withdrawal or limiting of many ‘potential allergens’ that have been used in classic perfumery for decades, including oakmoss, which is used in Chanel No 5 and Miss Dior. If the regulations went ahead, about 90 per cent of the classic perfumes would be affected, including those by Guerlain and Dior.
* The EC is to take another look into the safety of parabens it has previously designated as safe to use in cosmetics products, following Denmark’s ban on any parabens in products for infants. Denmark is particularly concerned about leave-on products that are applied to bare skin. Parabens are widely thought to be endocrine disruptors.
* France has a new brand in town: high-end, Brazilian-style haircare brand, Orphya. It comprises Lissage Bresilien Absolu (83 euros for a kit); Bain Lissant Absolu (200ml, 23 euros); Serum Brushing Absolu (100ml, 35 euros) and Masque Absolu (150ml, 34 euros). All the products are made in France.
* Fragrance firm Diptyque has announced its Christmas candles for this year: Sapin Doré (galbanum, eucalyptus, pine, armoise and fir balsam), Oud Ambrée (saffron, ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, black pepper, oud wood, cedar, patchouli, gaiac wood and armoise) and Oliban (citron, elemi, Somalian incense, myrrhe, vetiver, Peru balsam, benzoin and olibanum). All cost 28 euros for 70g, 52 euros for 190g, and come in in green, red and blue gilded glass pots, respectively.
* To mark its 25th anniversary, German naturals firm Lavera has revamped its Soins Bien-Etre bodycare range, with reformulations and new packaging. There are six lines, each with five to seven products costing 4-10 euros: Orange Feeling; Rose Garden; Lime Sensation; Honey Moments; Lavender Secrets and Coconut Dream. For autumn-winter 2012, it is also launching a new limited edition – Macadamia-Passion with two products: l’Huile Crème de douche and Beurre Corporel. Among the best-value for money naturals you can buy, in my opinion. Available from health food shops.
* Niche perfumer Mauboussin has announced a trio of new fragrances: Mauboussin Pour Lui, Mauboussin Neroli and Mauboussin L’Elixir Pour Elle. Pour Lui is a woody-spicy aromatic created by Violaine Collas of Mane, with ozonic top notes, with lavender and cedar; heart notes of cumin, absinthe and anise, and base notes of amber, ebony and oakmoss. Neroli will be released in April 2013, created by Benoit Lapouza and Delphine Lebeau of Fragrance Resources, with head notes of bergamot, neroli and orange, heart notes of orange blossom, jasmine sambac and ylang-ylang, and base notes of tonka bean, ambrette butter and patchouli. L’Elixir Pour Elle, due for September 2013 release, was created by Olivier Cresp and Nathalie Lorson of Firmenich, with notes of jasmine, rose and gardenia, heart notes of amber, benzoin, tonka bean and vanilla and base notes of patchouli, sandalwood and musk. Sizes for all three perfumes range from 30-100ml.
* Italian firm Compagnia Delle Indie is launching a new collection of six fragrances, called La Via Della Seta (the Silkroad). They are in 100ml parfum intense format and have the names Tibet White Musk, Persian Indigo, Sri Lanka Cinnamon, Ari Attol Coral, Burma Jade and Petra Desert Rose.
* On 1 February 2013, penmaker and watchmaker Montblanc will launch a feminine fragrance, Legend, exclusively via the Douglas perfumery chain. Created by Bernard Ellena and Nathalie Feisthauer, it has head notes of neroli, green pear and bitter orange, heart notes of orange flower, lily of the valley and Indian jasmine and base notes of musk, vanilla and blonde woods. The bottle is inspired by the story of Montblanc and decorated with a six-pointed star, the emblem of the house. The ad campaign, shot by Peter Lindbergh, will feature Swedish model and actress Mini Anden. 39 euros for 30ml.
* In January 2013, Yves Rocher will launch Flowerparty by Night, a reworking of its Flowerparty fragrance but this time based on a licorice accord, with notes of bitter almond and vanilla. Available in 30ml, 50ml, and shower gel and body lotion.
* Chanel is to produce a giant Christmas edition of Chanel No 5, at 205 euros for a 200ml bottle, along with a limited-edition bath soap for 50 euros.
* French fashion firm Lulu Castagnette has announced a raft of new fragrances. Lulu Castagnette Blue Addiction is out now: nosed by Barbara Wittig, it has head notes of lemon, grapefruit and orange, heart notes of roses, jasmine and blue lily of the valley and base notes of musk, cedar and sandalwood. The flagon is dark blue with feathers around the neck. In April 2013 the firm will also release a collection – Les Jardins de Lady Castagnette, comprising Un Jardin à Versailles (lemon, bergamot, cardamon; orange blossom, freesia, fig; vetiver, musk and Lorenox molecule); Le Jardin Aux 1000 Fleurs (lime, apple, red berries, roses, violet, peony, cedar vanilla and musk) and Le Jardin De Sens (bergamot, orange bark, grapefruit, lily, yellow rose, tea, incense, cedar and musk). The bottles by Thierry Faucon feature big silk flowers.
* Princesse Marina de Bourbon has released a new fragrance in its Lys range – Sunshine Lys - with notes of hyacinth, violet leaf and Calabrian lemon, strawberry, Egyptian jasmine and lily of the valley, and vanilla orchid, frozen musk and amberwood. In 30, 50 and 100ml EDP and a 7.5ml mini.
Today, I'm loving...
things I like today
...Morten Lauridsen's O Magnum Mysterium, just downloaded from I-Tunes.
My new jade Woodlander socks from Corrymoor.
My new (old) black leather reclining chair.
Isle of Apples by Richard Addinsell, just downloaded from I-Tunes.
Elin Managhan-Thomas singing Eternal source of light divine.
Mikhail Pletnev playing June, Barcarolle by Tchaikovsky.
Beauty news for 2 November 2012
Beauty news and releases this week.
* Interparfums has picked up the Karl Lagerfeld perfume licence dropped by Coty and will launch the new Karl Lagerfeld perfume in September 2013 for distribution in spring 2014. Current sales of Karl Lagerfeld perfume are nearly all in France and Germany and it is understood that Interparfums aims to increase sales five-fold and make the brand much better known.
* French makeup brand Nars has opened a new outlet in Los Angeles’s prestigious Melrose Avenue, and a San Francisco store is set to open in February next year. The firm is also said to be considering stores in Boston, Chicago, Dallas, London, Miami and Paris.
* The next Sustainable Cosmetics Summit will take place in Paris on 21-23 November, organised by Organic Monitor.
* The EEB (European Environmental Bureau) has joined with environmental organisations to express its concern about the recent review of nanomaterials published by the European Commission, which it says prioritise industry interests rather than protecting human health.
* Phthalates in makeup could be causing women to enter menopause prematurely, according to a study from a team led by Dr Natalia Grindler at the University of Washington, St Louis. Phthalates, especially bisphenol A, are endocrine disruptors and are found in beauty products but also in items such as shower curtains, tablecloths, food packaging etc.
* The global personal care products industry will reach 487bn euros by 2017, with a compound annual growth rate of 3.4 per cent, says market researcher Lucintel in a recent report. It says growth will be driven by the Asia Pacific region and Europe, with America lagging behind.
* German naturals firm Dr Hauschka has invested in an Ethiopian fair trade initiative designed to product a sustainable source of Damask rose oil.
* Natural and ethical firm Terre d’Oc has relaunched its Shea Butter range with new packaging, reformulations and a new, more eco-friendly production process from the collective of women in Burkina Faso with which it has worked for 10 years. The range comprises: Crème confort nourrissante (50ml, 19.95 euros), with its former water content replaced with aloe vera; Gel douche (250ml, 11.95); Crème mains (100ml, 12.95); Lait corps (250ml, 12.95); Huile de soin et massage (100ml, 14.95); Bougie de massage (110ml, 19.95) and a Coffret de soins (29.95 for four products).
* Organic/ethical men’s cosmetics firm World Wild Men is launching two new 2-in-1 shampoo/shower gels: one refreshing, based on mint and one relaxing, based on vetiver. They cost 14.90 euros for 200ml.
* Niche brand Charme d’Orient is launching a tinted sun protection cream with SPF 30. (32 euros for 50ml) – Crème Solaire Bio. 100 per cent natural ingredients, based on argan oil.
* In November, Sisley is releasing a limited edition version of its Eau du Soir fragrance for Christmas. Only 8,000 examples will be produced, costing 195 euros for 100ml. The red bottle is gilded with 18 carat gold with touches of violet, while the perfume notes are mandarin, grapefruit, jasmine and patchouli.
* Designer Dennis Basso has a fragrance out, which will sell via the QVC shopping channel. Based on head notes of Italian bergamot, lemon and green apple, heart notes of orange blossom, jasmine sambac and French tuberose, and base notes of cedarwood, cashmere wood and white musk, it will cost $69 for 2.5oz.
LABS, TECHNOLOGIES, RESEARCH AND PACKAGING
* Plant-based plastics will become more cost effective in the future as oil costs continue to rise and economies of scale appear, said Mintel in a recent webinar. It added that plant-based packaging's sustainability which makes it ‘particularly suitable for brand owners who desire a strong, environmentally positive positioning’.
* The European Commission’s Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety has opened public consultations on chemicals used in eyelash colourants, including oxidative hair dyes, pigment Red 57 and hydrogen peroxide, all of which have the potential to cause skin irritation.
* Researchers at the University of Bradford have discovered that bimatoprost - a drug used to treat glaucoma - can also be used to boost hair growth on the scalp. The drug is already approved for human use and has been used in mascaras since 2006 to boost eyelash growth. Products for male pattern baldness will no doubt be in the offing.
Beauty news for 7 September 2012
Beauty news and product releases this week.
* Parisian department store Colette is featuring 10 independent US beauty brands on its e-site, as part of its Brooklyn Beauty event. The brands have been chosen by Vogue and include Between You and the Moon, McBride Beauty, Soapwalla and Sprout and will be available until the end of October. As of 3 Sept, the store also has a French exclusive on US toiletries brand CO Bigelow.
* Denmark has banned the phthalates DEHP, DBP, DIBP and BBP, saying that European Union promises to phase out the compounds are ‘completely inadequate’. The ban will come into effect in autumn.
* Ecocert Greenlife has devised a new level of certification for spas. Called ‘Being’, it offers two levels of certification for firms that have implemented green practices.
* Aroma-Zone is holding studios on cosmetics making. There are five types: Essentials (1 hour, 19 euros), to acquire knowledge of one technique, such as how to make a lipstick; Duo (2 hours, 35 euros) to learn two techniques and two recipes; Programme Beauté (2 hours, 35 euros) to learn one beauty routine around a theme, such as haircare or skincare for combination skin; Clés de la Formulation (3 hours, 49 euros) to learn how to formulate and create your own cosmetics; and Aromatherapie Familiale (2 hours, 35 euros), with a choice of Autumn Energy, Reflexology or Essential oils and Cancer.
* Breton brand Britanie has added a fifth line to its range – Cote d’Armor. Named for a particular area of the Breton coast, it comprises five products: shower gel with cornflower (200ml 19.90 euros, 50ml 12.90 euros); gentle shampoo with wheat protein (200ml 21 euros, 50ml 13.30 euros); liquid soap with brown seaweed (200ml 19.90, 50ml 12.90 euros); natural soap with asses’ milk (2 x 55g, 13.30 euros); perfumed vegetable-wax candle (140g, 29.90 euros); box set of 1 x 200ml product, 1 x 50ml product, 2 x 55g soaps (44 euros). It has also launched travel-size versions of its products, on the grounds that the region is somewhere that most French people go on holiday. The gel products are now available in 10ml sachets, and the soaps in 15g format.
* New firm MitoQ Limited will soon be releasing what it claims is the world’s most powerful antioxidant, MitoQ cream, claimed to be 1000 times stronger than Coenzyme Q10. The new firm has been set up specifically to market the product.
* Naturado is relaunching its classic 1950s ‘savon de mur’ – soap on a stick. An all-natural formula, including olive oil, it is Ecocert certified and comes with its own chrome support that can be screwed to the wall. It lasts 500-600 washes and costs 27 euros.
* Lancome has released La Vie Est Belle, a new fragrance that it claims is the first iris gourmand. Nosed by Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo, it went through 552 versions in the creation and contains Iris Pallida from Florence, aldehyde of iris, jasmine sambac, Tunisian orangeflower, Indonesian patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, praline, cassis and pear. Available in 30ml, 50ml and 75ml versions, costing 53 euros, 76 euros and 93 euros.
* This month BCBG Max Azria will launch a new fragrance – BCBG Maz Azria Bon Chic. Devised by Stephen Nilsen of Givaudan, it has head notes of black raspberry, Asian pear and mango, heart notes of pink peony, violet and orange blossom and base notes of vanilla, cashmere musk and ‘soft woods’.
* On 17 September, Balenciaga’s new fragrance, Florabotanica, will be released, although it is being sold now in pre-release at Nocibé. It costs 53.20 euros for 30ml, 75.20 euros for 50ml, 106 euros for 100ml. Devised by Olivier Polge and Jean-Christophe Hérault, it is based around the hybrid rose Rose Experimental, with notes of vetiver, amber, caladium leaf and carnation-mint. Also available in body milk and shower gel.
* Diptyque is launching the solid perfume version of its new signature fragrance from last year, 34 Boulevard St Germain. 35 euros.
* At the end of September, Trussardi will launch a new men’s fragrance, Trussardi My Land. Described as a love affair to Milan, it was devised by Alexandra Kosinski of Givaudan, and has head notes of bergamot and green mandarin, heart notes of lavender, calone and violet flowers and base notes of cashmeran, vetiver, leather and tonka bean. The ad campaign will feature [the gorgeous] company heir Tomaso Trussardi and is shot by Wim Wenders, while the special bottle was designed by architect Antonio Citterio. Prices 41-79 euros for edt, 53 euros for aftershave, 28 euros for shampoo and shower gel, 27 euros for deodorant.
* In October, Anne-Marie Borlind will bring out a limited edition of its Eau de Rose fragrance, Eau de Rose Jalë. It costs 17 euros for 100ml and is processed by hand from organic damask roses.
* In November, French perfumer Reminiscence is releasing a limited Christmas-box edition of its signature 1970 fragrance Patchouli. It includes a 100ml perfume and a 20ml handbag size spray for 73 euros.
* US firm Bergstrom Nutrition says that the anti-inflammatory supplement MSM could minimise skin ageing due to its sulphur content. The firm makes OptiMSM, usually taken for joint pain and inflammation.
* Researchers at the University of Mississippi have developed a camouflage makeup for the military that also helps protect against bomb blast. They say it might also be used for firefighters to protect them from sudden intense flashes of heat.
* Researchers at the National University of Ireland say that they believe they have found the cause of the skin condition rosacea. They believe it is caused by bacteria that live inside Demodex Folliculorum mites that normally live harmlessly in the skin but are present in greater numbers in rosacea sufferers. It is hoped that this greater understanding will lead to better treatments for the condition.
* Researchers at Penn State University in the US are studying a Malaysian tribe to try to determine why, although pale-skinned, they suffer far less skin cancer than Europeans.
Beauty news for 30 August 2012
Beauty news and releases this week.
* Market researcher Mintel has reported a 10 per cent fall in sales of body care products between 2007 and 2012 and says that customers lack any kind of brand loyalty in this sector, instead buying whatever is cheapest. Manufacturers should be price-focused, it says, so if they take this advice, watch out for the market flooding with cheap lotions.
* French organic skincare website Ecocentric has revamped its website with a new design, ‘more fluid’ navigation and a more efficient user interface. Browsers can now search by brand, skin type, colour, specific need, etc – even look up the eco-credentials of the different brands on offer.
* In September, niche perfumery Parfumerie Générale will release its new unisex fragrance, Djhenné. Devised by Pierre Guillaume, it is meant to evoke an oasis in the desert, with head notes of crispy mint and lavender, heart notes of seringa, cocoa and wheat, and base notes of Atlas cedar, leather, myrrh and amber. It will be available in 30, 50 and 100ml formats.
* On 1 September, Azzaro will release its new masculine, Azzaro pour Homme Night Time. Devised by Christophe Raynaud and Michel Girard, it features bitter orange, rhubarb, heather, black pepper and nutmeg. 54 euros for 50ml.
* On 24 September, Armani will release Armani Code Ultimate, a more intense version of Armani Code. Devised by Antoine Maisondieu, it has head notes of grapefruit, mandarin and aniseed, heart notes of cedarwood, cypress and heliotrope and base notes of guiac wood, vanilla and tonka bean. 56 euros for a 50ml edt.
* In November, Hanae Mori Parfums will launch its first male fragrance, HiM. It has head notes of bergamot, mandarin, grey pepper, violet leaf and cardamom, heart notes of cinnamon, fig and tonka bean, and base notes of teak, white cedar, fir balsam, musk and amber. The launch will be exclusively at Nordstrom (US) and Holt Renfrew (Canada) before rolling out to other US stores.
* On 6 September, Chanel will release its matching lipstick and nail varnish combos: Twin-Set. The set comes in three shades: ‘violine’, ‘rose intense’ and ‘beige rosé’. I note a trend towards glamour, with this, Dita Von Teese's collection and the new Madonna lipstick out soon.
* For France’s ‘rentrée’, when the children go back to school in September, children’s skincare brand Toofruit is releasing Brume Fraicheur no-rinse facial mist. Based on bilberry, orange and ‘Complexe Filmo-Protect’, it costs 9.80 euros for 100ml from the firm’s website, and pharmacies and Mademoiselle Bio. Toofruit is aimed at 6-12-year-olds, who lack sebum in their skin.
* Organic skincare firm Purissmes has released a new anti-ageing cream, Crème Hydratante Fondante (39 euros for 50ml), based on essential oil of ho berries, essential oil of myrrh and extract of edelweiss.
* In September, French skincare brand Clairjoie Paris will release three new products under the slogan “Geste beau plaisir”. They are: Crème Hydratante Jour et Nuit Peaux Sèches (with shea butter, coco butter and organic jojoba); Crème Hydratante Jour et Nuit Peaux Mixtes (with orange flower and organic vanilla) and Crème Clarté (with lemon, mandarin and organic honey). All 23.70 euros for 50ml, from instituts de beauté and the Clairjoie site.
* For the rentrée, organic skincare firm Ritessens is relaunching its Beurre D’Argan cream, containing argan oil, shea butter, simmondsia chinensis oil, sweet lemon oil and tocopherol. 23 euros for 50ml from specialist beauty salons and the ritessens site.
* On 1 October, French makeup brand NARS will release the first tranche of its new Andy Warhol-inspired makeup line, as a Sephora exclusive. The second tranche will follow on 1 November. The first tranche will include the ‘Debbie Harry Cheek and Eye Palette,' 'Flowers Eyeshadow Palettes,' the 'Kiss Mini Larger Than Life Lip Gloss Coffret' and the 'Walk on the Wild Side’ set. Some collections will come packaged in a soup can. The second tranche will include collections named for the Factory (Silver Factory set, $200), Edie Sedgwick ($75) and Candy Darling (the Beautiful Darling set).
* Scientists in South Korea have begun research into extracting collagen from jellyfish for use in cosmetics. The plan has arisen mainly as a way of dealing with the toxic Nomura jellyfish, which wreaks havoc with the country’s fishing and tourism industry on a seasonal basis, getting tangled up in fishing gear and making the beaches no-go areas. If cosmetics manufacturers can make money of of the jellyfish, it could kill two birds with one stone, believes the Korean Government.