17 April 2008
Deconstructed fashion - part three: independent designers
Deconstructed fashion has some pretty big names, but it also has many smaller players, ranging from one-man-bands making one-off clothes to small firms making limited-edition clothing.
Wall

One of my favourite small companies is Wall. I would LIVE in these clothes if I had the budget. Sticking usually to a narrow palette of greige, beige and black, Wall clothes are very timeless and flattering, and suitable for all figure types - clean, intellectual clothes for women with a brain. The firm concentrates on high-quality fabrics such as alpaca and pima cotton, and loose, wrapped or body-skimming designs with flattering necklines.
Etsy

A great home for individual designers is the art site Etsy, which features hand-made items made by independent vendors. A new discovery here is Secret Lentil, made by Helen Carter, who contacted me after my first article on deconstructed clothing. Helen recycles used clothing into new garments, often a long way from the original. Each piece is individual and not repeated, and she specialises in serging, with revealed seams and interesting fabric combinations, often in black, grey and khaki jersey.

Designer Lori Sandstedt favours a very bright and patterned palette and has a fetish for wacky aprons, which she feels women should wear more - over dresses, over skirts and over trousers. She too sells via Etsy and has her own website, where visitors can clearly see that many of her satisfied customers are women over 40 who want to look out of the ordinary. This is her Bettie Page meets Betty Crocker apron and Primavera dress - ‘Feminine and edgy without being coy or dark’.

Danny Mansmith is a fabric artist and sculptor who also makes clothing. Here, we’re moving truly into the art-to-wear category. Mansmith favours structured elements, especially in his accessories, and many of his pieces have a biker-chick feel, but this scarf and cape are among those that suit women with a more subdued taste.
Patterns
The many independent pattern companies that have sprung up over the past 10 years give fashion-conscious women another outlet. You can either sew these yourself or take them to a dressmaker - either way, you’ll end up with unique garments that actually fit your body. My favourite indie pattern company is Sewing Workshop - seen here are their Japonesque jacket and Lotus skirt as made up in real life by fiber artist Nancy Shrieber for Threads magazine.
More on art to wear and independent pattern companies another time…

Amazon.co.uk
Amazon.com
(1) 18 April 2008 at 12:54 am
Susan Claire
The link for Wall in your post doesn’t work.
Is this the right company?
http://www.wall-london.com/wall/Default.aspx
I love the Sewing Workshop Patterns and have been using them for yours. Linda Lee, the owner, is a great too!
(2) 19 April 2008 at 10:14 am
trish
Thanks Susan - I’ve fixed that link. What other pattern companies would you recommend for SecondCherry readers? I was thinking La Fred, Birch Street Clothing, Kayla Kennington and BatikButik (I sold one of mine to them some years back), but do you have any other recommendations?
(3) 20 April 2008 at 12:13 am
Susan Claire
Hi Trish- Off the top of my head I would suggest patterns from Textile Studios, Lois Hinse, Revisions Designs by Diane Erickson, Cutting Line Designs, Great Copy Patterns, L.J. Designs, MacPhee Workshop, Park Bench Patterns and Burda has some deconstructed designs as well.
What did you sell to BatikButik? My favorite summer pants pattern of last year were from them.